Just got my axles in from Awesome Buggy... I spent hours on the forum trying to find some good info on the process of axle removal and install, and no luck finding anything useful. The Search function on this forum is pretty worthless, it just spits out random results, pretty much any and every topic thats in the section you try to search ....
SO is there a nicely done DIY axle removal/install thread floating around the forum somewhere? I have some questions/concerns...

What do I all have to remove to get the axle out? Do I have to take off the whole swingarm?

Does it matter which axle goes on which side (are they symmetrical in length)?

Do I need to grease the splines at the ends going into the diff and hub?

Thanks in advance for any help

Mick posted a how to a while back, but I will try to walk you through it. I have done it several times now

1st you do not have to remove swing arm.

My axles are the same lenght, but I would eye them up to make sure before install.

I did not grease the axle spline before install, do not know if it would help or not? Someone else might want to chime in on this one.

I disconnected wheel and shock, and used a piece of 2x4 to (Carefull of transmission seal) pry axle from Tranny, it is held in by a clip.

Was not bad, and I am still a novice when in comes to mechanical stuff.

Chris

Thats all? sounds tooo easy... thanks for the info. I should have her running in no time

I took a better look at my new axles and was suprised to find that the cvs did have some small differences.... in fact they had completey different part numbers and made by two different manufacturers. One axle had the number 06-6 inscribed on it with the cv reading ANDA 2005 10 29 0793WX.
The other axle its hard to read the numbers- bad inscribing, looks like 06-5 or could also be 06-6.... and inner cv reads ' JIA LIN ' and then the part number 0606 or 0808... again hard to see with the badly done dot style incription. I was a little iffy on this axle so I removed the boot and yes it is the newer six point design.
Also at the bottom of the spline socket on the trans side cv there is a second circular relief in one axle's cv (ANDA 2005 10 29 0793WX) that is not present in the socket of the other axle's cv (JIA LIN).
Just thought this info might help others later on.

Any body else with any tips on the axle remove and install feel free to chime in.

Don't forget to drain the tranny oil first! Make sure you break the lugnuts and outboard hub nuts loose before you jack it up. If you put the rear of the buggy on jacks and remove both lower shock mount bolts, you should have enough extra downward travel to pull the inboard CV housings out of the transmission and then remove the axles without messing with the trailing arms.

Yeah... I sort of didnt do that...actually I totally didnt do it. SO it scared the shiz outa me when trans fluid came flowing out of the diff the instant I pulled the cv off.... whew good to know thats all because Im a doofus and forgot to drain it first. I thought I fecked somethoing up for sure...

The driver side cv (one I blew out) was easy to get out but the passenger side was a different story. Its very apparent that the passenger side swingarm does not drop down as far as the driver side because of the location of the engine mount nearby. I couldnt get the cv out over the last 2mm of spline and I tried everything for an hour or so before I finally broke down and removed the swingarm. It was much easier than I tought, I should have done it earlier rather than trying to loosen the engine mount and shift the whole engine over...

So 3 hours and a huge messy puddle of trans fluid later and the old ones are out. I took my time as I am unfamiliar with these buggies.
I was also told by Sean that I should check on the wheel bearings. He said the earlier years of 800cc buggies had an open bearing design and that the chinese factory often doesnt pack them with grease. Has any one had this issue? My bearings look pretty well closed up into one peice to me... good shape too, no rust. Should I even worry about it?

I found this posted on the web from Sean @ Super-Kart some time ago. I used it when I changed my CV axles.

Here are some instructions on changing CV Axles on the 800, 1000, 1100cc. Check bearing on left and right hub when you have CV axles removed. Some early models did not have sealed bearing. Sometimes the bearing are not packed with grease. Napa has these bearings in stock. Some outboard splines are also different from model to model so make sure you can return the axles if they are the wrong spline. Do not waste your money on at CV axles with Tri-pod design for inboard CV. The outboard CV's are pretty bullet-proof. Some axles are however made from soft metal.

1. Drain Oil from transmission.

2. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts.

3. Jack up sandrail in middle until rear wheels are off ground.

4. Use two jack stands to support sandrail, put a stop (block) at both front wheels.

5. Remove Left or Right Rear Wheel.

6. Disconnect Shock from Trailing Arm.

7. Remove cotter pin from outboard CV.

8. Remove Nut from outboard CV.

9. Remove bottom bolt of Shock while supporting Trailing Arm

10. Use a 32mm Socket to loosen the large nut that is located on each side of the Trailing Arm Pivot Point

11. Use a 5/16" or 8mm Allen Key to back out the Pivot Bolt on each side while supporting the Trailing Arm. You do not have to disconnect the brake caliper if you are careful. Do not break the brake line!

12. Use a pry bar in disconnect the inboard CV. Simply pry on lip of CV from underneath (by trailer hitch) to get CV off.

13. After the inboard CV is disconnected from transmission, simply remove CV axle.

14. Install New CV by putting the outboard CV in Trailing Arm first. Grease CV joint spline so it does not rust in case you have to remove in future.

15. Rotate Spring Clip on Transmission Spline so gap in spring is located at the bottom of shaft.

16. Push Inboard CY on, jiggle it a little bit and it will slide on and lock in place.

17. Use a 5/16" or 8mm Allen Key to screw in Inboard Pivot Bolt about 1/4 of an inch on inside first.

18. Lift Up Trailing Arm and let the inboard Pivot Bolt support the Trailing Arm as you align outside of trailing Arm with Pivot Bolt Hole.

19. When Trailing Arm is aligned with outside hole, screw in Pivot Bolt using 5/16" or 8mm Allen Key. If the Pivot Bolt is screwed out to much to allow Trailing Arm to be installed, then screw it out accordingly.

20. You can now adjust the Inboard and Outboard Pivot Bolt. This Adjustment will move your Trailing Arm Closer or Further from Transmission. Do not tighten the two Pivot Bolts too much or you will stop the Trailing Arm from rotating. Tighten Large Inboard and Outboard 32mm nut in Step 24 after you have completed Step 21.

21. Verify Trailing Arm will travel up to just above level with transmission without binding. Not all 800cc, 1000cc or 1100cc sandrail have the same length axles so this step is important. Ideally the outboard CV should stay seated and the axle should still have some movement (.250 or more is fine).

If you have no axle movement, with Trailing Arm level and the outboard CV is seated, then the Axle is to long. If the outboard CV does not remain seated with the Trailing Arm is level then your axle is too short. Remember the Trailing Arm can be adjusted outward or inboard a small amount if you have any binding by adjusting the Inboard and Outboard Pivot bolt. Binding can occur if the axle is too long or too short. If your axle is too short then I would not recommend putting on the nut for the outboard CV or damage could occur to CV joints. If you have no binding then proceed to next Step.

22. Install Nut for outboard CV.

23. Install cotter pin for outboard CV.

24. Use a 32mm Socket to tighten the large nut that is located on each side of the Trailing Arm Pivot point if you are finished adjusting Trailing Arm.

25. Connect Shock to Trailing Arm.

26. Repeat Steps 5 to 25 to replace the other CV axle.

Put 90 weight gear oil in transmission when you are done with both sides according to owners manual. Good Luck

Calbuggy

Wow Nice set of instructions, thanks for the c/p
I will definitely use this as refrence when I install them tomorrow morning....very helpful especially step 20 and 21 I didnt know the trailng arm bolts adjust its distance from trans. I didnt really think about testing out the articulation of the new axles either.... good info

Well I installeed the axles this morning and immediately ran in to a problem. The passenger side axle was easy to get in this time and it 'travelled' in the cvs very nicely. But the driver side axle was binding before I could even get the swingarm level with the trans. I tried to adjust the swingarm out as far from the trans as possible but it barely helped. Then I swapped it over to the passenger side to experiment and it binds up the same on that side too. Looks like the one axle (with ANDA 2005 10 29 0793WX on the cv) is too long and not meant for a Roketa. SO I guess the axles had different cv manufacturer for a reason... they are meant for a different 800cc Buggy.
What I dont get is why would Awesome Buggy carry a different axle than for a Roketa if the only 800cc's they sell is Roketa? Im going to give them call tomorrow for sure...

I had the same problem. It is an easy fix. Take off the axle again. Remove the inner cv boot and and large O ring to remove the 6 ball and cage. On the end of the axle there is a little c clip. Remove it and rotate the ball and cage. It should give you about 3/8" more inward travel. I have two of the exact same axles and each were set different. It actually sits tighter on the axle after you swap it. The axle will be almost flush with the end of the cage if done the correct way. Sqeeze the clip some before reinstalling it.


Good luck
Joe

Ok so I popped the boot off and then I just pulled the axle right out of the cv. There was nothing there to stop it from pulling out of the cv and I could not find this large O-ring you speak of, I looked around in the grease.... Is this normal or is this cv missing something?

Wow I cant believe all the bs i have to go through in order to replace these axles... I mean not to be too whiney or lazy, but Why cant they just set the axles for optimal plunge from the factory?? anyone without mechanical skills would be screwed owning one of these.... its just stupid for business too.