During extended runs or driving hard in the desert, the engine will stall. Doesn't happen consistently. I can restart immediately and then idle fine. It is a random weewee-off kind of problem. Any ideas?

Thanks.

Are you certain that it is heat related? I had a problem where my 800cc would cut out on accassion and it turned out that it was the ignition. I ordered a new one from Sean and now it never stalls.

Randy,

Do you mean the ignition (key) switch, or other component in the ignition system?

Thanks.

When I first got the buggy, it would stall in mid run with the clutch in. I would let out the clutch and it would pop-start back up. It seemed to happen when the full set of lights were on. I forgot about the problem as it went away...do not know if it was when I bypassed the overhead light fuse, or during some other mod???? All I know for sure is it doesn't happen anymore.

Sorry I could not be more helpful.
Chris

Key ignition.

Chris,

That is my issue... Run wide open for 3-4 minutes, clutch to downshift or slow for terrain, and stall. Bump starts right away on the fly (another death blow to the CV's ) I always run with one set of lights on at least.

BTW - how much was the new key switch?

Any reason why the ignition swith would cause that? Lights + cooling fan = too much draw at that point? I was thinking of replacing the key with a toggle switch-on / push-button start set up.

Thanks

just some thoughts on this subject...some relavent, some not so..

BTW...my 800 would not idle very well after the first dusting this last weekend. I had to set the idle up high to keep it going and it would still stall on occasion if I didn't feather the throttle. I fixed this last evening by removing the carb top and spraying carb cleaner through all the air and fuel passages. Neither fuel jet was clogged, but there must have been some particulate in one of the passages as all is normal now.

Another reason these engines will "shut off" is a loose connection at the fuel shut off solenoid. This device shuts off fuel to the low speed section of the carb when it is turned off to prevent "run on". However, the engine will run fine at all speeds, it just will not idle or will die when you get your foot out of it. You can hear this solenoid activate when you turn your key on and off. I turn my ignition on (don't start the engine) and then exercise the connection to make sure the solenoid does not shut off from a loose connection.

When your fan kicks in and you are running your lights your alternator "loads" the engine. If your idle is set a bit low, say 750rpm, it will drop a couple of hundred revolutions when this happens. If you run with your lights on, set your idle speed with them on and the fan running. This will keep it from dropping too low and causing a stall while you are driving.

As far as the ignition switch thing, it shouldn't just happen at idle should it? If it cuts in and out, it could happen anytime. ?

later...mick

Mick,

Given any thought to just removing the shut-off solenoid and plugging it? If it runs on, you could always put it in gear, but that will be better than the 'phantom shut-off' concern.

Not a bad idea if it becomes a constant problem. I can't see the harm in it.
Good suggestion,
mick

Decided to try and set my idle up with hot engine and all lights on w/ fan running. After about 10 minutes idle, it started to run REALLY rough, pushed some black smoke and choked. When it was off I could hear a gurgling coming from the carb; sounded like fuel was boiling in the bowl. Definitely a heat problem.

Last weekend was the first time I actually ran long enough to see this issue, without dropping an axle. On to a new page I guess...

What fuel is everybody running in these? I am using unleaded 91 like the manual says.

Anybody offer some advice?

Thanks!