That's there because Yerf Dog began using a (somewhat) standard 1" axle bearing in mid 2005. The set screw doesn't serve any function here because the axle is set in place by the machined shoulders at the insides of the bearings.
Travis,
So then the clamp collars ARE for holding the hubs on the inboard side? What kind of torque can you achieve on the hub nut without the collar moving?
I solved this problem by taking the design from the mini-sprint axle setups , they use full length spacers that slide over the axle in between the hubs, bearings and gear/brake hubs to keep everything aligned. they can also adjust rear offset by using different combinations of spacers. I simplified this by using 1" ID PVC pipe as spacers cut to lengths, then slipped over a 1' axle. The wheel hub nuts keeps every thing in place. it's light, durable, weatherproof, protects the axle from nicks, holds hub keys in place and possibly adds a little bracing against over flexing. It has held up well. Tip: if you do this , use a liberal coat of WD40 on the axle before sliding on the spacers. this aids in getting them on , keeps moisture out and really aids when removing them
no problem, Chris I'll try to get something to you asap. A drawing would probably explain it better than pics. My own swing arm assembly is so modified with extra bracing and bearings it looks more complicated than it really is. I'll give you a schematic to illustrates the principle.
no problem, Chris I'll try to get something to you asap. A drawing would probably explain it better than pics. My own swing arm assembly is so modified with extra bracing and bearings it looks more complicated than it really is. I'll give you a schematic to illustrates the principle.
Here you go…I use a 1” OD flex proof solid axle http://www.gokartgalaxy.com/deluxe_flex ... _axles.htm . Spacers are cut from 1” ID thick wall pvc pipe. Spacer ends need to be cut square and clean. I used a miter saw to cut lengths. Final trim was done with a sanding plate to polish the cut ends. . The length should be loose enough to rotate on the axle but with zero endplay. Proper lengths are important for proper bearing pressure and sprocket alignment. Locking collars are used to serve as a flat square rub surface for the spacers. They also serve as a solid block to hold ¼ keys in place. The collars don’t need set screws, they can freely rotate on the axle. the only place I used set screws was where I needed to lock key ways, [wheel, chain and brake hubs]. The outer axle nuts hold every thing in place. Equal torque on the outer axle locking nuts holds the whole system together. In the mini sprint world, they will offset the spacers to move the rear wheelbase from side to side depending on track conditions. shifting the wheel base from side to side with different combinations of spacers changes the center of gravity and effects chassis roll and tire/surface contact area in a turn. For example... Shifting the wheelbase towards the passenger side excerpts more down force on the right rear tire.This will help the car from spinning out and turn better. Changes are implemented to compensate for tight / loose conditions in the turns. Not that we need this sort of exacting tuning, but the set up is easy to fabricate and gives the advantages I previously stated. I can't see why this won't work on the axle setup that is mentioned Holler! If I left out something!!!
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