people have been talking about the choke on the cv carbs so i went and studied mine i figured out that when you pull the throttle it slowly goes up you would from the looks of it get get better acceleration if it was stuck up has anybody taken some jb weld or something and gluded it up? if so did it work? did you have starting problems?

any other ways to fix this?

I assume the choke is acting up..correct? I simply removed the choke...cut a piece of thinnest gasket material I could get that roughly fits the shape of the surface contact area...put the two bolt holes thru the material..bolted the choke back on the carb OVER the gasket material....unplugged the wires to the choke. Now it starts right up...idles better....isn't influenced by ground/resistor problems etc....better performance all around, because the choke isnt doing whatever it feels like doing
BW

im having the same problem.

i just found a website that tells you how to make it manual if it does work ill do that

hh150guy you're looking at the slide, not the choke. The choke isn't visible on a CV carb because it's an additional fuel circuit that's open only when first started. Once running, current thru the resistor heats up the "bystarter valve" which pushes a needle into a seat and closes this extra circuit.
On a CV the slide isn't connected to the throttle and instead responds to vacuum created by the throttle valve opening. THat big round can on top of the carb hides the vacuum diaphragm that moves the slide.

There are 3 mods to the choke:
Block it as Byron suggests.
Remove the heater assembly and replace with a screw to make it a manual choke.
Remove the entire choke assembly and convert it to a primer system.

hh150guy, check this out, I pull up & push down 1 time & it's primed ((= 1 squirt of fuel), and VRooooooooooooooom >>>>>>>> it start's.
http://www.buggynews.com/viewtopic.php? ... ht=plunger

thanks ill get one how much was the shipping

7 or 8 buck's shipping...,I think. If you can find one at some local Cycle or snowmoble shop...then no shipping.

nam6869usmc posted pix of his completed primer conversion in the thread:
http://www.buggynews.com/viewtopic.php?t=5463
And the original idea came from here:
http://www.rc-trucks.org/gy6-engine-performance.htm
But none really showed any details on HOW to accomplish this mod. Until now...

After removing the bystarter assembly and gasket you will see the 2 screw holes + 3 fuel holes. You need to plug the hole closest to the intake end and exhaust ends, leaving the one in the middle between the screw holes. I was concerned the epoxy might leak down into the holes so first I plugged them with a small ball of solder hammered into the hole. A dot of adhesive paper like a mailing label would probably do just as well--it'll be covered with epoxy anyway.