Before you change anything cycle your suspension. See if you get 0 deg of caster at full droop and around 4 deg. of neg. caster at full compression.

Is that what it should be? thanks

If your a arm mounts on the chasis are the same front and back top/to bottom you will have no caster change at all....what i mean is if you have 6" in height at the rear mounts top to bottom arm and 6" at the front.....

Now if we are talking camber change, Then you make the fram mounts shorter than the spindle mounts, so if your ball joints are 7" between the pivot center, then the bolts on your bshings would be less, say like 6", now from the looks of it to me, i would make the a arm pivots just 1/2" shorter than the spindle....Imo, you want 0 at full droop, and -6 at full bump.....now for castor, thats the angle the spindles leans back towards the rear of the car, top being back fartehr than the bottom, IMO you would be happy in the 5 degree range....

Now on a side note, if you only plan to have about 8" of travel, you will need a shorter height inside like you have, because you want to change the camber faster, i have only 12" of front travel, the car remains 5" off the ground, so i got 12" to change my camber, so i dont need as much difference, if i wanted the same degree change to happen in 8"

whoops, it's camber, camber camber...

my gas tank.

Looks good, welding that thin stuff sux to, its definetly a job for a patient person....

the only thing not good about that tank is its fill tube is a little off angle. debating weather to fix or not.

naaaaaa.... It just has a little personality!

Well the rest of my stuff should be coming Monday. I still need to get front shocks, a Polaris pulley for the transmission conversion, a little more tubing and tab material and some aluminium Diamond plating for the floor and of the buggy and the calipers.