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PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2006 5:59 am 
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Posts: 360
Location: Camp Hill, Pa.
Ckau,..in a way your correct about the idle,...that is the only thing that does get a little flaky,>>maybe cutting 1 would of been a little better for my idle. Cut "3" came right off of some other forum I read, and there was even a debate in their forum concerning "3" would be to many and effect the idle somewhat. The push down on mine is a little slower now, and just mabye I'll take the top off & give it a little stretch. Sometime's when you take the next step in a mod you move into the extreme. I'm the "what If Guy" ,...and boy do I get into trouble with that theory.

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Jim,......

Talon DLX1502R,

Koso Clutch(9,sliders),Redneck=Uni, CVT=K&N,Mudlite's,EASY START Plunger Primer, Gutted Reliable Muffler,,CV Carb MJ= 132.5, Drilled slide,Tiny Tach,Performance CDI/COIL,

Reinforced Front STRUTS,Steering Wheel


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2006 6:51 pm 
I feel ya, Nam, my own ratio of sucess to failure is a huge gap, but we can take heart in knowing that at least the next guy can learn something from it :) Stretching that cut spring? been there , done that. the spring looses tension, and the diaphram floats so bad it will idle from nothing to 3 grand. sounds cool, like a real hot cam, but is not really drivable I settled on one full turn so it would idle without one foot on the brake and the other on the gas The one turn still improved response considerably. make sure you have a good steady fuel supply. I found the total CV mod seems to take more gas than oem lines can supply. Love your PPchoke! you solved one real nasty problem with the Cv carb!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2006 7:05 pm 
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Posts: 360
Location: Camp Hill, Pa.
PPchoke is a gift to my Buggy,..1 purge & it start's......the larger fuel line would be a great idea/improvement with these fuel eating Mods. I'll do that asap. Also, I'll fine a new spring somewhere somehow & take 1 ring off because the idle does float around a dab. Thx again. The thing is running great with the 8 grs Slider's,...top speed is still there, but low to 1/3 thottle is at you disposal anytime time power..

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Jim,......

Talon DLX1502R,

Koso Clutch(9,sliders),Redneck=Uni, CVT=K&N,Mudlite's,EASY START Plunger Primer, Gutted Reliable Muffler,,CV Carb MJ= 132.5, Drilled slide,Tiny Tach,Performance CDI/COIL,

Reinforced Front STRUTS,Steering Wheel


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 Post subject: full rejet
PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2008 12:27 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2007 4:13 pm
Posts: 13
Does anyone know what the downside to drilling out the holes on the main jet holder to something slightly larger than a #62?

It seems to me that it would cause more atomization, requiring a larger (or drilled out larger) main jet.

Another reason I ask is because my bits go as low as a #60 and I don't know if I want to search out a place that has a #62. I checked at the local OSH and they only go as low as #60. Not exactly sure because the difference is only .002", but on something this small and the turbulence created by these holes, that .002" could be a lot.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2008 10:31 am 
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Joined: Sun Feb 27, 2005 12:36 am
Posts: 4044
Location: In the thumb, MI
I think I found my drills at a hobby shop many years ago. I have a drill index for #60 all the way down to #80. It's empty (spilled?) :roll: but I still have some of the drills. Call or look online for "wire drills".


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 Post subject: take a look...
PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2008 8:57 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 18, 2007 9:41 am
Posts: 44
Location: North East (Italy)
Abuot re-jetting and tuning: take a look to:

http://foro.maraudercustom.com/

go to


Mecánica, Bricolaje, Trucos, Ñapas...



and to

Brico: Cómo aumentar la potencia de la Marauder 250
(page 1)

(direct link doesn't work!)

You don't speak SPANISH? nevermind... me not too... enjoy the photos!!!


The most interesting is about moving the jet needle to enrich middle ranges without cutting-drilling anything... so, if doesn'work, you can get back.

The carburetor of gz 250 (I got one) is very similar...

If you really does not understand nothing... i COULD TRY to translate...


Attachments:
carb25.jpg
carb25.jpg [ 32.26 KiB | Viewed 41 times ]

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 Post subject: Re: A FULL REJET
PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2009 10:08 pm 
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Posts: 173
Location: Wichita, Kansas
ok so I've read every post in this string and I have a few questions. . .....

For the pilot jet are we only working with a standard 35 or could I do this on my 38 or 42?

It also stated that I would need to get new exhaust and intake . . . .
Will a gutted and drilled exhaust work?

I have a stock '05 HH 150 with a PD24J (24mm??) Dekni carb. What performance intakes are offered for that? Would ported the head make up for non-performance intake? I just have the 'ol rubber boot for the intake. But now that I think about it, that 'ol rubber boot intake has an alum base plate . . . can that ported? I know alot of questions, but hey I'm very eager to learn and tinker HAHA

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'05 HH 150 137.5 mj/42 pj (still tuning)
Drilled jets, UNI
drilled/gutted muff
10g, yellow main, red clutch
'53 F100 V8 Fordomatic (street rod rebuild mode)
'07 F150 SCrew 4x4 w/ K&N cold air & Flowmaster exhaust



BB '09 campsite #23


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 Post subject: Re: A FULL REJET
PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 12:03 pm 
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Location: In the thumb, MI
kansasguy1976 wrote:
ok so I've read every post in this string and I have a few questions. . .....

For the pilot jet are we only working with a standard 35 or could I do this on my 38 or 42?
The mods should work fine with those jets.
It also stated that I would need to get new exhaust and intake . . . .
Will a gutted and drilled exhaust work?
Yes
I have a stock '05 HH 150 with a PD24J (24mm??) Dekni carb. What performance intakes are offered for that? Would ported the head make up for non-performance intake? I just have the 'ol rubber boot for the intake. But now that I think about it, that 'ol rubber boot intake has an alum base plate . . . can that ported? I know alot of questions, but hey I'm very eager to learn and tinker HAHA
The "Redneck" intake is the best bet and costs almost nothing, other than the cost of the UNI filter.
I don't know if porting or gasket matching would make any difference with the small airflow of the 24mm carb. Maybe someone else who's tried can chime in on this point...?
On the other hand the intake elbow is a $5 part so go ahead & grind away...but do it after you've done the rest so you can see if it makes a difference.

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2 Polaris RZRs & a Dune 150. Ridge Runner--Gone. Yerfdog 3206--Gone (but you never forget your 1st!).
Buggy pictures, mods, ideas, how-to's:
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 Post subject: Re: A FULL REJET
PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 6:38 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 15, 2009 1:25 am
Posts: 173
Location: Wichita, Kansas
Ok thanks for the info. One last question just cause maybe it flew past me . . . . . . . . "Redneck intake" can I get an explanation? I seen redneck intake all over the site, but not sure what exactly it is. Thanks again!!

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'05 HH 150 137.5 mj/42 pj (still tuning)
Drilled jets, UNI
drilled/gutted muff
10g, yellow main, red clutch
'53 F100 V8 Fordomatic (street rod rebuild mode)
'07 F150 SCrew 4x4 w/ K&N cold air & Flowmaster exhaust



BB '09 campsite #23


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 Post subject: Re: A FULL REJET
PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2009 6:49 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 24, 2006 7:18 am
Posts: 9699
Location: Hampton GA
take a piece of sink drain pipe 1 1/2 dia, 6 inches long. take a 1 1/4 to 1 1/4 rubber coupler,. connect one end of the rubber coupler to the carb where the stock air box connected, put the sink drain on the other end. put a uni filter on the other side of the sink drain.

the drain pipe will be between the carb and the filter. I like the chrome ones

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