Well I've seen many excellent uses of the Geo Metro drivetrain, so I've decided to canabalize one for myself instead of buying piecemeal at a junkyard.
She started life as a 1992 1.0L 3 cyl with a 3 speed automatic. I specifically chose the automatic to make life easier on the trail without a clutch. I plan to use the gate shifter to put it into P-R-N-D and use a toggle switch/paddle shifter to engage 1,2,3 as needed.
Stock the suspension has about 3" from full droop to compression. Taking the hub off of the strut it looks like I can gain another 3-4 inches travel down before binding in the CV.
I've linked my calcs to the different length CV axles for the metro. My goal is to use 2x of the 27" axles. With the 3cyl auto 1 axle is much longer than the other, but the goal is of course to have equal length and on the passenger side you need about 26" to clear the oilpan.
I plan to use 2 trailing arms with the hubs swapped side to side and turned 90 degrees.
If anyone has more detailed dissasembly or construction measurments please email me.
I plan to use this as a placekeeper as I dissasemble the Metro in case anyone need dimenisons/visual reference prior to undertaking a swap.
Actually I believe Minnesota_Duane is using an auto Metro CV axle on the driver side of his GK-06 because the manual one from his donor was not quite long enough.
That didn't work out for me, I ended up with spacers at the hub to hold the CV joint into the inboard cup farther. This has been working fine but not really the best way to do it. The automatic axle was too long and would bind before the suspension bottomed out. I am going to change that sometime this winter by making the cup deeper. I will put another cup into the lathe and cut it off then weld the outside portion to my axle cup. That will allow me to raise the rear suspension and not have to worry about pulling an axle out.
Finally got around to doing some work this weekend. Wasted 12 hours on a round trip to an ebay auction I won for a Polaris Ranger body/frame that the seller refused to sell.
I took some general critical dimensions of the engine/auto trans combination.
What this really means is that the differential is offset from the centerline of the complete engine/trans package by 4.5" not perfectly balanced but definitely doable with some planning.
I plan to make my own harness and started making some strategic cuts and began by removing the battery, ignition coil and what I believe to be a large resistor of some sort.
I chose to cut the main wiring harness at the firewall
Follow this harness toward the driver's side fender and cut away from the relay block. I had to make 2 cuts, one on the bundle directly to the relay block, and a second as you follow the bundle a few inches further down.
The main wiring loom will go under the engine and unwind into the various sensors on the passenger side of the engine. You need to make sure you unhook the MAP sensor from the firewall.
Next the EGR/IAC/EVAP hoses are all attached to the intake and to devices on the firewall. I choose to simply disonnect the devices from the firewall and leave the hoses connected to the engine and zip tie the devices to the engine. I did cut the fuel lines to the TBI, as well as the line on the evap cannister to the fuel tank. Fuel line and return EVAP Cannister IAC (leave vac lines connected to valve and intake, cut control wires)
Throttle and transmission kick down cables are removed from inside the car, you will need to pull the cable from inside the car on the accellerator to detach it from the pedal and you can pull it toward the engine thru the firewall (both are connected together)
I decided to cut the speedometer cable between the transmission and speedo before the firewall Now we have to disconnect the shift cable from the transmission. To do this, you have to take the clip that holds the cable assembly in place on top of the transmission (similar to a spring clip on a brake line. Then you simply remove the end nut on the linkage to the transmission and tie it to the firewall. Shift Mechanism removed Tied to Firewall
Vac Diagram Based on the above info, I plan to block off the EGR and cap the EVAP system as they aren't necessary in an off road system. I've also disconnected the radiator hoses and removed the radiator. The Heater hoses were simply cut at the firewall as well. The main vac line to the brake booster was also removed. At this point all that remains to remove the engine/trans is the 4 mounts, cutting the exhaust and taking the axles out. Hopefully I get the engine out this week.
53" Width with a wheel track of 42"(Front) 44"(Rear) 1400lb curb weight.
Going to ditch the suzuki 3cyl engine (660cc) since parts are "fun" to obtain like on the minitrucks. Trans is not in the donor (sitting in the bed). Rearend is 11:1 ratio so that probably not in the future.
Frontend is a double A arm, but the front brakes are drum so even if I extend the arms, the drums will probably be a limitation, my goal is a top speed of 50-60mph as this is not going to be meant for the dunes, but more of a UTV.
Chassis/frame is rated for a 1ton load with nice e coated frame rails (no rust).
Biggest decision right now will be engine orientation/application
Options a) transverse mounted engine in rear on trailing arms...pros are easy to fabricate....cons are weight and less suspension travel due to CVs utilized b) transverse mounted engine in rear on double A Arms ..pros are more suspension travel and lightweight...cons are very wide mount points needed in order to have equal length arms due to overall width and don't want to interfere with serp belt and alternator. c) longitudally mounted engine in rear utilizing a rearend from an IRS vehicle..pros are the ability to have LSD, factory geometry alreay thought out...cons are axle ratio (very steep) and length of engine combo.
I won the internal auction at work for the buggy, will probably pick it up after the new year and bring her home
Thanks for the link....been following that one for a while. Unfortunately my running gear is pretty much incompatable with my engine trans. Would be awesome if my buggy had a cvt on it as the metro does a great job as a cvt
I've got the motor pretty much in the location I think it should go. But have a few more questions before I mount it in place as well as add lower A Arms.
I have the transmission output in line with the front wheel hubs in an effort keep as much as I can parallel.
I'm utilizing Geo metro CVs into their hubs, obviously they don't have as much plunge allowed as 930s, but I'm realistically hopeing to have 4-6 inches travel. My question is where should I mount the lower A arm?
Should I mount it so that it is parallel to the CV when sticking straight out, or should I have the mount below this centerline so the A arm goes up at the end? (I think I should have it as close to parallel at that point.
Assuming I have my A A-arm parallel at that point, should I mount the A arm at the point the CV axle is fully compressed, or does it need to have some extention?
I've attached pictures of what I'm working with below.
Joined: Wed Nov 28, 2007 2:21 am Posts: 16136 Images: 24 Location: Pacific NW
I think those hubs would be easier to adapt to trailing arms since you have sufficient room fore of the axle to allow for swing. If you go with a-arms, you will need to cut out some of that rear framing to allow the a-arms to move vertically.
_________________ 09 Joyner SandViper 250 08 Joyner SandViper 250 07 Joyner SandSpider 650 SOLD 04 YerfDog 4209 Spiderbox GX150 SOLD 04 YerfDog 3206 Spiderbox GX150 SOLD 57 VW Transport 1200 (Buggified) NW Riding - http://www.buggynews.com/viewforum.php?f=54
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot post attachments in this forum