I just got a Dune 150 from a shop that closed down - so it needs some work (top end/electrical). I started tinkering as soon as I got 'er home. I figured I'd get the electrical woes solved before I start repairing the motor, which the top end is off. Thought the battery was dead so I pulled it and tested - read 12.3V. Hmmm, I thought. So I started tracing wires, etc...voltage seems to stop at the rectifier. The little fuse was ok. No voltage there, though. What do you guys think the problem could be? Rectifier? Do they fail often? Is there a suggested method to test all the components to determine which is faulty?
Joined: Mon Jul 16, 2007 9:14 pm Posts: 2594 Location: west virginia
vr6nutt wrote:
I just got a Dune 150 from a shop that closed down - so it needs some work (top end/electrical). I started tinkering as soon as I got 'er home. I figured I'd get the electrical woes solved before I start repairing the motor, which the top end is off. Thought the battery was dead so I pulled it and tested - read 12.3V. Hmmm, I thought. So I started tracing wires, etc...voltage seems to stop at the rectifier. The little fuse was ok. No voltage there, though. What do you guys think the problem could be? Rectifier? Do they fail often? Is there a suggested method to test all the components to determine which is faulty?
well i'm not sure whats happening but if your battery is showing 12.3 it needs to be charged 12.6,12.8 is what your looking for on the battery.i don't think that is causing your problem though. also at this time i don't think it is your rectifier.
hot wire from battery goes to big lug on starter solenoid. on the same side as battery wire there shoud be a wire hooking there to, sending power to the fuse. on other side of fuse it branch's off one wire going to rectifier and if that buggys has a brake switch (safety switch) the other wire goes to it.push brake down that sends power through switch powering one of the 2 small wires on solenoid,then power goes out the other small wire going to key switch.when that hot wire on key switch makes contact with the ground wire on key switch solenoid puts contacts together sending power to starter. i got this from a crossfire wiring diagram that i believe alot use for the dune to. that gives you a idea of how it is wired,strange that you had power at rectifier but not at fuse.the power coming from the fuse goes to rectifier. hope that helps some.
pud
_________________ 2006 sunl 150b Dr. pulley 10 gram sliders,prodigy variator, 1500 torque spring,39 tooth sprocket,2000lb winch, red neck uni filter with K&N precharger, 125 main jet at 1,634 elevation, drilled out exhaust,ngk iridium plug,performance intake
Joined: Mon Jul 16, 2007 9:14 pm Posts: 2594 Location: west virginia
vr6nutt wrote:
So does the brake pedal have to be pressed to say...test the lights?
no the lights won't come on until the engine is running. the lights get there power from the stator once it is running.
in the crossfire diagram they call it a brake switch but the brake has to be pushed down before you will get power to key switch.its a safety feature. thats is if that buggy has the brake switch. i have heard some do some don't.you might trace some wires and see if you have one.
pud
_________________ 2006 sunl 150b Dr. pulley 10 gram sliders,prodigy variator, 1500 torque spring,39 tooth sprocket,2000lb winch, red neck uni filter with K&N precharger, 125 main jet at 1,634 elevation, drilled out exhaust,ngk iridium plug,performance intake
no the lights won't come on until the engine is running. the lights get there power from the stator once it is running.
So it sounds like my "problem" maybe nil. I'll have to see if the switch gets power after I press the brake pedal. Not 100% sure - so I'll trace. Well, if thats the case, then I need to get it running in order to test the lights.
Another question: Any suggestion on assembling the top end? The cart came with a 170cc top end kit but is not installed. Stock top end is apart and off motor. Chain is dangling loose and it appears to be at TDC. I referenced the cam upgrade and it looks like I may be following that procedure...correct? Thanks for the help!!
no the lights won't come on until the engine is running. the lights get there power from the stator once it is running.
So it sounds like my "problem" maybe nil. I'll have to see if the switch gets power after I press the brake pedal. Not 100% sure - so I'll trace. Well, if thats the case, then I need to get it running in order to test the lights.
Another question: Any suggestion on assembling the top end? The cart came with a 170cc top end kit but is not installed. Stock top end is apart and off motor. Chain is dangling loose and it appears to be at TDC. I referenced the cam upgrade and it looks like I may be following that procedure...correct? Thanks for the help!!
measure the old cylinder see if it matches the new kit. If doesnt the motor will have to be totaly taken apart and machined case to install it.
_________________ _____________________ Karl
Blade DX 150* * on the juice Sunl 150(sold) Quiksilver sr 440 150 kinroad racer- mods:its a secret
measure the old cylinder see if it matches the new kit. If doesnt the motor will have to be totaly taken apart and machined case to install it.
I got the motor together finally. When I bought the buggy, the PO tossed in several extra motors/cases. You were right about the cylinder! Lucked out that one of the spare cases was already machined out. Played parts swap all day and ended up with one good 170cc motor. I still cannot start it from the key though. I have to jump the posts on the solenoid to start. So after some testing, it seems that the solenoid/relay is my problem. Found em for ~$10 on ebay. In doing more work on the cart, I realize that it has some more issues I overlooked. You know the way it goes when you buy something used! The sprocket on the reverse assembly was only held on by two bolts! The rest were broken off! My son was able to get all the broken pieces off. Now to buy some good bolts that wont break! And the reverse cable is broken as well! I did some searching around and cannot find a replacement anywhere! Lots of throttle cables though. Any idea where to get one? Also, when motor was running, I was watching the output shaft....was barely spinning at low RPM, and not really spinning that fast once the motor was revved...why? Is that normal? Or is something maybe awry with the CVT? I thought I assembled all correctly...Thanks!
Joined: Mon Jul 16, 2007 9:14 pm Posts: 2594 Location: west virginia
the reverse cable is broken as well! I did some searching around and cannot find a replacement anywhere! Lots of throttle cables though. Any idea where to get one? Also, when motor was running, I was watching the output shaft....was barely spinning at low RPM, and not really spinning that fast once the motor was revved...why? Is that normal? Or is something maybe awry with the CVT? I thought I assembled all correctly...Thanks![/quote]
one of the dealers here should be able to help you on the reverse cable.i think BIGE might have one or can get you one.sometime if you don't see it on ther site it doesn't mean they don't have them or can get them,found that out before when i should have just ask
well i have never really watched my out put shaft before but remember there are trans gears behind the clutch.that might be why you don't think its spinning fast enough.but if your not sure never hurts to check thing over again.
pud
_________________ 2006 sunl 150b Dr. pulley 10 gram sliders,prodigy variator, 1500 torque spring,39 tooth sprocket,2000lb winch, red neck uni filter with K&N precharger, 125 main jet at 1,634 elevation, drilled out exhaust,ngk iridium plug,performance intake
Joined: Tue Jan 24, 2006 9:29 pm Posts: 1781 Location: SE. PA/MD Line
Is this the Reverse cable you're looking for? We have them in stock in 48" and 57" inch varieties. I believe the Dune and Crossfire use the 48 inch and the GT150 uses the 57 inch.
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