Thats wierd, Ive never had that problem. The newer carbed 800cc doesnt have a pcv. Must be in the jetting, oh well as long as it is running good now.

The videos look real good

I still would like to get more power off the line without having to shave the head or grind the cam just yet. I have the timing set at 10 and the distributor is maxed on adjustment. Can I get the adjustment to go higher on the timing some how. And how high can you go to not lose to much top end power?

jojano dont shave the head, that will icrease the compression ratio + turbo = BOOM! You only want to increase cylinder compression on a naturally aspirated engine to make power. with turbo the boost makes the compression, so in fact you want to space the head farther from block deck in order to create more 'room' for more hp at the same boost level (psi). too bad as far as I know nobody makes a head spacer...

personally I would go with the cam, get a cam ground with a strong low-midrange to get you going until the boost kicks in at a higher rpm. You may lose a little power and psi at high rpm
because of the lower duration of the cam, but that can be cured by turning up the boost more to make up for it. no matter what it will be better than sock cams which have like only .30in lift

If I'm not mistaken "West Coast" did shave his head along with the cam, new valves and springs, plus higher compression pistons, along with the existing turbo. But I may be wrong. I still am wondering about the timing?

Actually WC advised me not to shave the head if I was going turbo in a email, tho I already knew this before then... Im pretty sure he got the new pistons cause they are forged, as opposed to the stock cast ones, which are way stronger to handle the boost. They could even be lower compression pistons too, but I didnt ask him about that.

I can assure you tho it is not a great idea to shave the head with turbo. In fact you want to space the head out farther from the block, ideal compression ratios for turbos are like 7.5:1 - 8.5:1 The 800cc is stock 9:1 which is still pretty good.

I hear ya. I guess no matter what you buy anything from stock is always a great improvement. I should be happy with what I've got and run it like always. I am working on reinforcing this frame in the rear while I waite for the newer GK-32 frame. The buggy frame rear control arm mounts are real weak. Needs loads of reinforcement.

why did you tweak a mount or something? I havent had any issues with them myself, but then again I never catch big airs... I did find it funny tho that the whole rear swingarm pivots on two short bolts that arent even machined to be the same.
I also always thought there wasnt really enough support bars around the engine, but I havent had any problems with that yet either so I guess I shouldnt worry

whats this about a 'newer' GK-32 frame??

This is where I am at now with the rear control arms. They have gradually bent uppward on the outer rear control arm mount. So much that I have a real bad toe out, as you can see. I am planning on cutting these for now and rewelding some supports, until I complete the GK32 frame that I am getting from Roketa. Just swapping everything from the older buggy frame to the newer one.

Ouch that does look bad... but I would think that the little bearing inside the swingarm would blow up before the entire mount bent .....Did you do alot of airs to have this happen or is this from rough fast riding??

and now I see what your saying about the GK 32, its just the frame you are getting new from Roketa. Are the rear swingarm mounts on those beefier? looked the same to me...
And what about the old frame?? sounds like the perfect start for a custom buggy

I have to agree about the shaved head keep as stock as you can. I have had a few 800cc cars in my shop with blown head gaskets and two right now from a unmentioned builder. All because of milled heads. I use nothing but cams and mass internal head work.