The lazy mans way to change a CV BOOT on the Joyner 1100!

I had a cv boot starting to tear right where the metal band
secures the boot. Caught it in time before it started
throwing grease out. Why it tore I am not sure. Double checked the CV joint and they are like new after 300 miles.

My dealer had the boot in stock for the 1100 and I picked
one up. But my buddy that has a Volkswagen buggy said why
not try a split boot, very easy to install and he has had
them on his buggy for 10 years no problem.

With a little research the 2007 Hyundai Elantra 2.0L has the
same diameter CV.

Drive down to Autozone, part # 03606, CV Split Boot Kit, $11.99.
Complete with bands and grease. About the same price as the boot
from Joyner.

I'm a big fan of tie wraps, the 50# heave duty ones with the
metal clip and a tie wrap tool made short work of installing
the boot. Longest job was cleaning up the grease after taking old
one off.

Now I'm off to riding again.

Here are some pictures, have fun!

How many miles did you have on the buggy before it went out?

Thanks for sharing the idea AND part numbers...That's what I'm looking at this site for...."Support"... when I get my buggy running....

I had just under 300 miles.

Came back from the dunes where I ran it hard, it was hot out, I was cleaning it off and noticed the boot staring to separate where the large band holds it on.

There is a lot of heat in that area. I was thinking maybe the metal band gets hot. Another reason I went with plastic tie wraps to hold it on.

The right side boot looks OK however.

I will see how this boot hold up.

Any thoughts or comments?

Thanks, Jim

I have read about the same problem in another post on this forum somewhere. Different model buggy though. They also thought it was getting too hot.

Taking mine out for the long weekend. Only 20 miles on it right now. Hopefully she holds up. We can't wait!!!! Heading out to Red Mountain.

I had the same boot fail. I only had 180 miles on it. I thought it might be heat related as well. I was almost to the point of using those split boots but my deal came thru with a new boot.

Just as a FYI installing the regular boot is pretty easy once you know what you are dealing with. Joyner tells you to use a hammer wrench. This takes the axles off. When they told me to turn the hammer wrench around and beat the CV cup off. That won't work. If you pull the boot back there is a wire keeper installed on the outside of the cup. Pull that off with a pair of needle nose pliers. Then the whole CV come out.

I got one of the out board CV on the inside it seems to be working better. I also used a Lucus grease which seems to keep it cooler. I think there might be to much flex on this side for that three ribbed boot to handle.

When you pull off the axles the transmission starts to leak oil. So I went ahead and changed the tranny fluid. Has anyone else done this? Mine had a small amount of metal flecks in it . Don't know if this in normal but more than likely we need to keep the oil in the tranny fresh.

We planning a trip to the dunes next weekend, I guess I will pick up one of those split boots and have it ready.

Thanks for the part numbers .

Thanks for the info.

I was thinking the same thing on the boot, the inner boot is stretched pretty tight when the suspension is fully extended.

The outer boot is actually larger than the inner so maybe they got then reversed. The replacement split boot is also a little larger so less pull on it.

We will have to keep an eye on this to see if this continues to happen.

-Jim

Check out http://www.norrecind.com they make what I consider to be the best ATV/UTV boots on the market.

Thanks for all the info guys... This just happened to my boot last weekend. Hand to perform emergency surgery with zip ties to stitch the boot back together!

leenanj, what grease did you put back in the joint after you replaced the boot?