I have my 55 watt "burners" from Advance auto for $14.00... I snapped off both stock lights and ran the Burners into the stock light harness, with a new ground wire... I then interrupted the power supply with a 15A inline fuse, and went one step further and installed a switch for the lights!!! Now the lights ONLY come on at night when I hit the switch!!! SO... No draw on the battery, NO killing the stator, and all bright when full throttle!!!! lol...At idle they get a little dim, but still brighter than the stock crappy lights.... lol...


I got a set of Hella Beams that are like, 1000watts.... Those are next!!!! lol

john

Unless you tapped into your battery for light power, the stock wiring powers the lights directly off the stator AC. Although just about any light is better than stock, your stator is not lighting those bulbs at full intensity. If you did tap into the battery, limited use will allow your battery to recover enough to start your buggy but continued use will drain it and leave you stranded when shut down.

that's why the lights only come on at night...lol...and that is why I put a switch on!!! lol... I dont need them at full...they are hella bright when the buggy is idling high or at revs... on a scale of 1-10, they are 9 times brighter than the stockers, which is great for me! lol...much better when i ride locally or at EMR!!! if we ever get back there! lol... I love them... they were originally wired to the battery with a switch, however, the fuse popped everytime the buggy got wet!!! Since I did this mod of going into the stock harness, (knock on wood), NO blown fuse!!! lol


John

That's what i meant on my first post, I did the exact same thing, all new wires not the old wires, all new power wire to my battery w/ 15A fuse and ran the negative wire to the battery as well and I have a SWITCH for the on and off, like I said when it's off it sucks NO power from the battery so i'm good. If you get complacent or ride for 6 hrs in the dark just trickle charge the battery at night (should do anyways) or get a dry cell batt just for your lights and accessories, piece of cake eh?


James

The only good solution is getting a higher pole stator. That way you'll never need to be worry about it. A lot of the lights themselves are junk. I know in the Y'Dogs if we put new 35W lights on they are a lot better than the stock 35W lights.

I recieved my 11-pole stator and high output regulator. As soon as the flywheel puller arrives, I will be upgrading my 3206 doubling the available power.

how difficult is the stator swap? I know the 11 pole does not have the plug in and go capability as some of the other aftermarket stators. What do you need to do in order to istall the 11?

Good luck PGH!!! Keep us posted on your upgrade!!!


John

PGHRUBY, do you plan on using the special flywheel puller that I've seen around here and there or are there normal readily available tools that can be used? I think I saw that flywheel puller for $5-$10, but I can't find it at all.

Power, there are two kinds mechanical and electrical. We need and want both.

The puller looks like the same tool you would use to pull bicycle cranks off a 3-piece setup. I ordered mine from Scooter Assassins via eBay.

The connectors do not match from the 11-pole stator AC to either the the stock regulator or heavy duty one from Buggy Depot. This stator will kick out enough AC to burn up bulbs directly connected to it, so the lights need to be run on the regulated DC side. With the BD regulator, it has both regulated 12VDC and 6VDC outputs so my mind is churning what I might use the alternate power tap for (maybe a golf cart battery?). I hope to eventually create a bridge harness with correct molex plugs, but will start with raw contacts and heat shrink.

The tool should be waiting for me Monday to start the teardown and swap. In the mean time, I am still tracing one of the requlator wires to figure out its purpose...

darn computer made me double post...see next post for reply!

john