Joined: Wed Nov 28, 2007 1:21 am Posts: 4813 Location: Seattle, WA
TeamHog wrote:
So, you're only going to run them two at a time, right? So, using your numbers you should be able to run three (3) 55w lights at a time.
So the 11-pole is about a 150W / 12 V = 12.5 Amps.
I can't believe with all your stuff you don't have a meter that you can read the currrent with.
The 8-pole shines bright with 110w load and can handle 150w with a little degradation. I should be able to safely push 220w (two 55w pairs at any one time) with the 11-pole. My ammeter is limited to a 5A load...
Joined: Wed Nov 28, 2007 1:21 am Posts: 4813 Location: Seattle, WA
SUPERSPORT wrote:
Oh, do you have an 8 pole also?
I helped someone install one in exchange for performing science projects on it. I have wanted extra current for quite a while, but held off until the 11-pole was available.
Joined: Wed Nov 28, 2007 1:21 am Posts: 4813 Location: Seattle, WA
After allowing the scope of my electrical project to go way overboard, I have completed the electrical work on the Yerf-Dog. I ended up with these modifications:
1. 11-pole stator 2. High output regulator 3. Manual choke 4. Rear tail light 5. Rear brake light with two additional LED brake lights 6. Front running lights 7. Drilled angle stock as a light bar 8. 4 - 55w forward facing lights 9. 2 - 55w rearward facing lights 10. 3 - switch control panel for light bar 11. Key switched starter interlock 12. Wire looms on all runs
The running lights and one pair of forward facing lights are run off one output of the HO regulator. The second output of HO regulator goes to the battery, stop lights, second set of forward facing lights and the rearward facing lights. Although all six lights can be run, the 11-pole is only capable of running four of them so the rest of the capacity comes from the battery.
Attachments:
File comment: Environmentally sealed switches control the 3 pairs of lights on the light bar. LightSwitch.jpg [ 330.11 KiB | Viewed 11 times ]
File comment: Each light pair is fused to source power. LightFuses.jpg [ 406.74 KiB | Viewed 9 times ]
File comment: Here you can see the brightness of the four lights plus running lights while at idle. They get even brighter at speed. 4x55wIdle.jpg [ 193.1 KiB | Viewed 15 times ]
File comment: Some lights to blind the guy behind you. RearLights.jpg [ 175.75 KiB | Viewed 11 times ]
File comment: The center light is a dual filament running/brake light. The outside lights are additional LED brake lights. BrakeLights.jpg [ 268.59 KiB | Viewed 11 times ]
Joined: Thu Oct 04, 2007 4:55 pm Posts: 3465 Location: Murrieta CA.
yah very nice my rear lights dont work so i am thinking of getting new ones because i think that it a problem on the wireing on the lights them self i have a 250cc
was also thinking of getting so smaller lights for the top is there any limits for me ?
_________________ 06 joyner 250 sand viper Red main spring 20 gram rollers Rzr front shocks on the rear Super trapp pipe Uni Filter
Joined: Thu Oct 04, 2007 4:55 pm Posts: 3465 Location: Murrieta CA.
yah very nice my rear lights dont work so i am thinking of getting new ones because i think that it a problem on the wireing on the lights them self i have a 250cc
was also thinking of getting so smaller lights for the top is there any limits for me ?
oh and maby a light wip mount
_________________ 06 joyner 250 sand viper Red main spring 20 gram rollers Rzr front shocks on the rear Super trapp pipe Uni Filter
Joined: Wed Nov 28, 2007 1:21 am Posts: 4813 Location: Seattle, WA
ageekwithabuggy wrote:
yah very nice my rear lights dont work so i am thinking of getting new ones because i think that it a problem on the wireing on the lights them self i have a 250cc
was also thinking of getting so smaller lights for the top is there any limits for me ?
oh and maby a light wip mount
I do not know the capacity of your CN250 stator. I would guess keeping the total load under 150W would be safe. You can have more lights, but make sure you can control which ones come on. I have each circuit fused, so it is easy to troubleshoot wiring faults instead of blowing one master fuse and having to trace it back to the short. The ground/return path might have to be upgraded on your wiring to handle a larger load - I made sure each circuit has as much gauge wire going to ground as I did for the supply to ensure maximum power transfer.
Also, I have eliminated the the electric choke, so I have the most power available for lighting. I do not believe BigE has a manual conversion for the 250's at this time.
I ended up with a custom harness that only had the original fuse holder, solenoid, CDI, coil and frame harness connectors. All the grounds, power distribution, regulator/rectifier and stator connections were custom to get the power I needed.
I am wondering if anyone knows what size stater is in a Rocketa 150 because I have 4 lights stock. Two up front and two on roll bar.
I am going to have to change something on the roll bar lights. They seem to shine more light on me then forward. thinking of some type of inverted light shade to restrict downward light.
What I am wondering is what size stater I have on my cart. I am interested in winch and radio.
I want to install another battery, but I am trying to figure how to separate it to light/radio/winch but let it be charged with engine without pulling power from starting battery. Am I just asking to much?
Thinking maybe just a red top optima mounted on back rack.
Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2008 6:49 am Posts: 189 Location: M-town, North Cackalacki
j9m9t wrote:
I am wondering if anyone knows what size stater is in a Rocketa 150 because I have 4 lights stock. Two up front and two on roll bar.
I am going to have to change something on the roll bar lights. They seem to shine more light on me then forward. thinking of some type of inverted light shade to restrict downward light.
What I am wondering is what size stater I have on my cart. I am interested in winch and radio.
I want to install another battery, but I am trying to figure how to separate it to light/radio/winch but let it be charged with engine without pulling power from starting battery. Am I just asking to much?
Thinking maybe just a red top optima mounted on back rack.
I have dual batterys, one for starter, electric choke, etc.. I have a stinger batt (dry cell) for my lights, i don't have a radio (cause my white bro pipe is way too loud) and no winch as well. i don't ride much at night but when i do the stinger has never failed me. No, it doesn't recharge while running the engine but i just trickle charge it at night after I've used it for a while and it works perfectly fine. My riding consists of 85% day and 15% at night, but the setup is killer. Good luck
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