I've mangled a few balljints and tie rod ends trying to pop the stud out of the tapered socket. Beating on the end only mashes the threads. It's better to leave the nut on & beat on that--but then the nut will be ruined. Prying with a "pickle fork" usually ruins the rubber boot.

I was in the process of destroying another nut recently when I got the idea to use my air hammer to motivate the stud.

All the joints I've encountered have a dimple in the end that the pointed tool can fit in. Every time I've tried the joint pops immediately out with no damage to anything.
I'm not a mechanic so I learned this the hard way.

Air hammers are usually dirt cheap.

They make a "PICKLE FORK" attachment for air hammers as well, try your snap on man or craftsman tools, these knock em off before you realise you pulled the trigger on the air hammer

I just spotted those at the parts counter yesterday--but don't they tear the boot like the long-handled type does?

Not if you angle the edges towards the arm..usually the boot ca be pushed down ...and not harmed since the bolt on the ball joint is tapered...A sure fire way is to grease the boot. then apply power

Good to know--especially for REAL balljoints rather than the tie rod ends many of these small buggies use. Thanks.

This method also works excellent when you have a steel bolt in aluminum, hit the head before you even try to turn it, shocks the threads and will give far superior result over breaking off exhaust bolts in aluminum heads.....