Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2005 9:39 pm Posts: 1694 Location: Dallas TX
tobinns wrote:
Thanks for the info, I'll try again and make sure I had it all correct.
I would get a voltmeter and measure the Black/Red wire coming off the stator for AC. It's usually around 40VAC at idle and jumps up to 75+ as the engine speeds. I'm not sure, but I seem to remember the last time I had a GT200 apart, there was not an exciter/magneto coil on the stator to provide AC to an AC powered CDI. Rather than pull it apart to look, an easy check would be to just test it with a voltmeter.
Joined: Wed Nov 28, 2007 11:19 pm Posts: 161 Location: Northern Virginia
During my latest electrical system work on my ASW 7150, I had to pull the stator. It looked like a normal 8 pole unit, and the AC wiring read 128VAC during cranking when I was testing it. Seems like that should be sufficient. I replaced it with another 8 pole stator, which only makes 108VAC on that line because it has fewer windings and at least 1 less plate.
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Joined: Mon Sep 10, 2007 10:23 am Posts: 5 Location: Auburn, MI
bvroc wrote:
During my latest electrical system work on my ASW 7150, I had to pull the stator. It looked like a normal 8 pole unit, and the AC wiring read 128VAC during cranking when I was testing it. Seems like that should be sufficient. I replaced it with another 8 pole stator, which only makes 108VAC on that line because it has fewer windings and at least 1 less plate.
I believe I found the problem. I'm only getting 3.4vac out of the stator. That pole must be dead. I switched it back to stock and all works fine. I'll be tearing it down soon so I'll just wait to replace the stator.
Joined: Fri Oct 31, 2008 1:33 pm Posts: 39 Location: Red Bluff Ca.
I also have one of these buggies. Great buggy!!!! It has 21x10x10 tires on the rear 19.5 inches tall and 19x7x8 tires on the front 19.5 inches tall. Stock would do 39mph with 2 adults 130 pounds each. Mods this far 132.5 jet 38 pilot jet 1.5" custom 12" glasspack with 1.1/4 header pipe. Air box mod 6) 1" air vents filters in stock air box stock filter 5"x3.5 paper filter, Beige's DC CDI box. Buggie with me 200+ pounds now goes 47mph. Got up any of the hills my friends atv were going but 1 only got front wheels on top of it. 2 bumpy to get run at it. Kids together were going up hills I could verly climb up by foot. Does donuts on demand!!! Still has the stock 31t sprocket and rollers in it. I have a MRP 115mm variator, yellow clutch spring and I'm going to get 10gram rollers. I'm hoping to keep my top speed and gain more bottom end. I'm at loss if I should get sliders or rollers!!! I will be doing a cam upgrade soon also. Looking at A9 more power on top end. Any suggestions?? New to the forum, but have been reading post for a long time.
In my experience, sliders work better than rollers because while they perform the same function, sliders can get you a little more top end from your variator due to their shape. And by little, I mean a tiny bit.
More importantly though, sliders tend to have a longer usable lifespan than rollers, also due to their shape. Rollers develop flat spots over time, and need to be replaced. Sliders already have the flat spots, so some wear in this respect will not prevent them from functioning as well. Like all parts, they are subject to periodic inspection and maintenance/replacement, but less so than rollers.
Joined: Sun Jan 07, 2007 7:38 pm Posts: 3076 Location: hopatcong, NJ
I tried 2 sets of sliders and it hurt my performance greatly... i went from well over 35mph to only 27 with 9g sliders (kinda expected), but with 12g rollers, i could only get to 32mph... I have 9g rollers in there now and I am regularly hitting 35 with no issues... As per the mods you have, Jerry, do you have any pix??????
Joined: Fri Oct 31, 2008 1:33 pm Posts: 39 Location: Red Bluff Ca.
I'll post some pictures when the weathers better an can get buggy out of garage. Not trying to start a new thead about a old subject, but has anybody tried using Jetmoto atv 150,200 or 250 front shocks with reservior on side of shock on the rear of buggy??? I measured them and they will fit with no modification to buggy at all front and back!!! My backs are hydraulics stock and dampen well. I'm thinging about putting them on the front and using jetmoto type on rear. I have a used set of Blaster front shock. I just don't want to mod mounts on the buggy, just bolt and go. I can grind the eyes down and make them fit. They must be gas charged because even on the lowest setting they're pertty stiff. Just a side note Jetmoto atv front rims fit front of buggy nicely. I picked up a pair of rims and tires 19x7x8 tires mounted on rims for 29.99 each for a total 64.99 from dealer new!!! I bet the backs would also fit 22x10x10 49.99 each mounted. But I already got a set of tires 23x11x10's to mount on rear later. Are 10gram rollers the way to go??? 9grams to low, 11grams maybe??? I just want to be able to get the most out of the 115mm variator stocks is 108mm. Motor is a 4 bolt valve cover made by tj sports gy6. I have used the uni filter and getto intake and found the stock air box is better for the dirt!!! Only 1-2mph loss. I can get to 47mph in as little as 12 houses. a little over a block, mabe a block and a half. I think it's about 1000 feet in lenth. Any Idea's on the cam, more power on top end, RPM and hp.
Joined: Tue Jan 24, 2006 7:18 am Posts: 9689 Location: Hampton GA
I like rollers myself, but sliders work well if you are wanting to retain some top speed. 11 or 12 gramm sliders should do the trick, a9 cams are for pure speed.
something to think about, if you build the cvr and engine for speed then you will loose alot of bottom end, it will not take off as well or climb small hills good.
think about an a10 cam, 11 gram rollers, yellow or red main spring and change the clutch springs out.
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Joined: Fri Oct 31, 2008 1:33 pm Posts: 39 Location: Red Bluff Ca.
I have the Yellow clutch spring and yellow clutch springs also. Hard to put those 3 little spings in???? Stock 24mm carb. Just looking for some more top end and a little more bottom end for those big hills. I know I want my cake and a chance to eat it also. I think if I go at this right with help I can keep my current top speed and gain some bottom end also. I want a Cam for more hp ( over stock) and tune cvt for the chance to get both bottom and retain the speed I now have!!! Should I not use the MP-05206-1 115mm varaitor and just use the springs and get 11gram rollers. Variator came with 13gram rollers. If belt will not get to top of 115mm varaitor then stock will be fine. I know that to get the top speed out the 115mm I need the heavy rollers. I was thinking the sliders would give me the full 115mm and still give me the bottom I'm looking for. Maybe I have this all wrong. 11gram rollers, stock varaitor, yellow springs in clutch, (main and clutch shoes) A10 cam, loss of a few MPH on top but more power. I'm thinking that I could keep top end because I could get higher rpm out of engine?? Let me know if my thoughts are wrong. I thought I could keep top speed and low end because I could get the engine to revv higher giving back the speed I loose for low end. I was looking at the sliders to get that topend back. Runs great now, just looking for a little more bottom end without a major loss in top speed!!!! Is the 115 varaitor a waste in what I want???? Maybe it's just for the street racing and I picked up the wrong part!!! Thanks for all the help!!! I'll get the cam!! Someone told me the A8 was the best because it gave fast pick up and top end while had the power for hills if varaitors was set up right. Thanks
Wow Jerry - you can get to 47mph now and you want MORE?!
I only wish my buggy went like that!
The performance variator certainly will not harm your top end -- the weight of rollers or sliders you choose will affect that. If you're looking for a bit of both worlds (top and bottom end), then you're looking in the right place at the 10-11g weights.
The clutch springs affect the RPMs at which the clutch engages with the bell: if your motor is revved up higher, you've got more power at your low end when you start to move.
The clutch main torque spring forces the variator to stay in low "gear" longer by fighting the centrifugal outward force of the rollers that want to move the variator to a higher gear. This is why using a higher RPM main spring keeps you in that lower power band (for better climbing ability) for longer, BUT the spring's force can be so strong that it never lets lighter roller weights reach their full potential (killing your top end).
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