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PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2006 7:24 pm 
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Location: Stokesdale, NC
billl2099 wrote:
mig 110 volt flux core welder is all you need for these buggies, they will weld up to 3/16 steel without a problem and i haven't seen anything on mine thats any thicker. i purchased a lincoln from home depot, works great and sometimes i wonder what i'd do without it.


Ditto on the MIG, I recently purchased a Hobart 140 from Tractor Supply.... Cheaper than Northern by $80.

http://www.mytscstore.com/detail.asp?pc ... ctID=15365

I don't think it matters quite as much on which equipment you decide on as the time you spend practicing. You can't BUY experience. :wink:

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 8:21 am 
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like any tool you buy welders are designed to last for many years, don't buy cheap buy a good name brand.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 12:27 pm 
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I also have the 3200 HD from Home Depot and it works awesome.

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 Post subject: Mig, tig, stick, gas or what?
PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 2:12 pm 
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Location: Quincy, Ca
I was planning to include welding information as a topic to inform non-welders about fun and satisfaction of welding, but it looks like now’s a good time. I hope others will add information about their welding equipment and experiences.

Welding 101

I have been reading the posts over the last few months and have been surprised on how many buggy enthuses plan on doing minor to major upgrades to their karts that require welding and they can’t weld. Taking on some of these projects and expect to have a pro weld it for you is going to cost a lot and waste a lot of time waiting for them to get to it. I think it’s time you should discover the fun and benefit of welding. I have been welding for over 30 years, I worked as a heavy duty welder for at least 8 years welding up Cat D8 dozers, backhoes, 18 wheeler end dumps etc. I’m not a certified welder, and I’m sure that there are other welders out there that can kick my butt in welding, but I can fab and weld to get the job done, and make the welds look almost factory (sometimes better than factory).

First off, If you can take a welding class at a local jr. college. Doesn’t cost too much and you will learn a lot, and get a great deal of practice.
If you can’t take a class get a few books from the public library and read up on it. Then buy some welding equipment and start practicing. At first your welds will look like bird fecal matter or worse. Don’t give up cause it’s too hard, keep going, the more you weld the better you’ll get.

Different types of welding equipment for different jobs.

Gas welding.
Gas welding uses two types of compressed gas (oxygen and Acetylene) to produce a flame hot enough to melt steel.
Pros of gas welding: Once you get the hang of gas welding you can fill in large gaps, its easier to see what you are welding (because you are using light tinted goggles, like dark sun glasses) you can use the torch to heat and bend steel. You can also braze with the torch. Not as strong as welding but sometimes can work for you. A gas system also allows you to cut steel.
Cons: it’s slower than arc/mig (electric welding) for welding steel thicker than ¼ “. You first must heat both pieces of metal together at the same time and then add your welding rod, also the heat of the flame can burn other parts near your weld job.

Arc. (stick welding, buzz box)
Most of these welders use 220 volts (some cheaper ones use 110volts). You basically are controlling an electric arc, the metal in the welding rod gets melted on to your project metal. You must control the arc so that the arc melts your project metals and the welding at the same time. If your not careful you might only weld one side (put a bead only on one side of your project). Arc welding is great for welding thicker metals together. You can buy 220 v 180-220 amp AC output only or 220 v 180-220 amp AC/DC output. Lincoln and Miller are good brands, many others types are available. What’s the diff between AC and DC stick welders? DC seems to penetrate into the steel better, great for 7018 rod (used for heavy equipment). The welding rods come in different types, 6013, 60 is the tensile strength(60,000 psi) and 13 is the position to weld in ( mild steel rod) So a 7018 is 70,000 lbs tensile strength. Even though a 7018 rod has a higher tensile strength it is not always the best to weld with, it should be DC welded and welded onto a similar type of steel. Better to use 6013 for mild steel than 7018 for example.
The next to last digit indicates the position the electrode can be used in.
1. EXX1X is for use in all positions
2. EXX2X is for use in flat and horizontal positions
3. EXX3X is for flat welding
E6010 This electrode is used for all position welding using DCRP. It produces a deep penetrating weld and works well on dirty,rusted, or painted metals
E6011 This electrode has the same characteristics of the E6010, but can be used with AC and DC currents.
E6013 This electrode can be used with AC and DC currents. It produces a medium penetrating weld with a superior weld bead appearance.
E7018 This electrode is known as a low hydrogen electrode and can be used with AC or DC. The coating on the electrode has a low moisture content that reduces the introduction of hydrogen into the weld. The electrode can produce welds of x-ray quality with medium penetration
Pros: Inexpensive, you can usually find a good used AC 220v buzz box for $100. Great for 3/16” steel and up, you can weld1/2” to 1” thick steel with multiple passes.
Cons: Light steel harder to weld, must chip off slag from weld. Always changing welding rod. (each stick is about 12” long, as you weld this rod gets shorter, when the rod is about 2” long you must stop and get another rod).

Mig.
Wire feed welder, these are great welders that produce great slag free welds. These are electric welders that come in 120v or 220 volt. Instead of 12” long welding flux coated rods as used in the stick welders, a coil of 1/8” wire is feed while you are welding. You don’t need to stop and change welding rods. These welders use argon gas to shield the arc. However you can buy coated wire that does not require argon gas. (there is a small amount of slag left behind). In my collection of welding equipment I have a Miller 120v mig. See photos. This is a great little welder, it’s very portable and welds great up to about 3/16” (even larger ¼” if I chamfer the edges and muilt pass the joint. At work we have a 220 volt Miller that does great!.

TIG
I don’t TIG mainly because I never needed it. Hopefully somebody reading this can talk about TIG.

Hood
The best type of hood is an auto dark, these work great and can cost less than $100, well worth the money.

What to buy?
Depending what you want to weld and how much you plan on welding. If you plan on making welding a career, then buy the best, one of each type would be nice. My welding collection is a Miller 110 volt mig, miller 220 volt AC stick and a oxy/acetylene torch.

Here is a small welding tank setup for about $300.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/productIndex.shtml (small welding system)

Mike


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 3:37 pm 
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Thanks for posting tha info, it may help a few on here. Good stuff!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 5:30 pm 
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Awesome info... I've been looking for a post like that. We should make that a sticky somewhere.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 8:32 pm 
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Location: Rosevillle, Michigan
Good stuff there Michael OMassey

Additional info:

On the Hobart Welders site they have Welding 101 section that is printable which is real handy for a novice, just print it up and keep it on your work bench for reference, how kewl is that. They also have a welding Forum that is searchable for menbers, lots of helpful info there.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 13, 2006 8:42 pm 
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Good info D... Thanks!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2006 9:50 am 
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Location: NJ
When I'm stick welding should i cover up all my exposed skin or will just the gloves and helmet be enough? thanks

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2006 6:59 pm 
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It's best to cover up all the skin.


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