Hi all, I also am a newbe. I ran accross this sight after looking for some info for my sons cart. Looks to be an awsome site with a great bunch of people. I am from Mitchell, South Dakota.
The cart I purchased for my boys was a Manco Carbide 150. And to be real honest it has been a disappointment. Biggest problem is my local dealer doesn't know much about them. I started out running for 15 -30 minutes and quitting. I opened up the gas tank cap and it would start back up and go, kinda like it was air locked. anyway now it won't run at all now, if I pour fuel in the carb it runs, I can't get fuel to flow from the tank into the carb. What kind of fuel pump setup does this thing have. I have looked it over and am confused as to how the vacum works the fuel pump. the parts book calls it a auto rooster assembly pn 50210. is it possible that it is malfuctioning? any insight would be appreciated! thanks Doug

I dont know of any fuel pumps on these buggies most do have a vaccume operated petcock on the bottom of the tank I know there notorious for going bad and alot of people switched to a manual fuel shut off. Also have you cleaned the carb?

Welcome.

The "auto rooster" is a vacuum operated petcock on the bottom of the fuel tank. Since it flows better without the cap, first check the vent in the cap - It may just be lodged. If the vent is working, you should drain the fuel out of the tank and look for debris inside. The petcock has a screen in the tank that may be partially blocked. The petcock has two barbs: The lower one is the vacuum line off the intake elbow that also has a tee to the right side of the carburetor and the upper on that goes through a fuel filter to the right side of the carburetor. Make sure the fuel filter is installed with the arrow pointing away from the petcock. If all of this is clear, you will need to remove and give it a thorough cleaning.

Let us know how it goes and do be afraud to ask questions.

We have the same buggy, and have had similar problems. Our fuel filter was installed backwards, someone else had theirs the same way on a Carbide. It's probably the same guy doing them wrong during that shift at the factory.
You can get a replacement at Lowes or Homedepot, made for a riding lawnmower. Get the big clear one.

We also had a fuel "pump" go bad, and replaced it with a 3 position manual fuel valve. Look here, about 1/2 down.

If you don't want to have to figure out a way to empty the tank before you do a replacement of the valve, it is possible to do this with fuel in the tank if you're careful, and the tank is only partially full. Remove the tank from the buggy, and just tip it up on it's left side when you remove and replace the valve. If you end up using a manual valve, make sure you cap off the old vacuum line - or rework the lines to eliminate the one which was connected to the old fuel valve.

The performance seemed a little lackluster at first for us also and working over the CVT made the biggest difference for us. One of the first mods we made was to put in a Prodigy teflon coated variator and 10g rollers. Worked wonders for our Carbide.

I swear, I'm going to create an ASW Carbide / Helix performance and maintenance site ...

Finally, if you have recently bought it, American Sportworks is a good company that seems to stand behind their warranty. You might consider giving them call for a new fuel valve. Remember the performance problem I mentioned? I called the company to talk with them about it and they sent me out a new CDI - no charge. Anyway, good company IMO.

I found out a couple of things, ya, the fuel filter was on backwards! but my vacum line coming of the two tee line doesn't have enough vacum on it to open it. I 've had too many people play with it and now I am conserned if all the vacum lines are connected were they are suppose to be. I looked at a parts manual and no break down listed there. BUT Im did get it to run. what a dog! I unhooked the air tube from the air box to the frame mounted air inductor and it helped so I pulled off the air filter box and drilled holes around the outside of the filter housing. That helped a bunch but it still needs help. Does anyone have a diagram on the vacum lines? thanks for the help on the backwards fuel filter, I', pretty sure that was my main problem. Can't believe I over seen it and didn't notice it Doug

Given that this is the 3rd or the 4th time I've heard of this on this particular buggy - it's officially an epidemic now.



The lines are pretty simple. The line starts at the base of the intake "elbow" or manifold (yours is black, plasticky and prone to eventually leaking), and runs to the top / side of the carb. That's functionally a minimum. The stock ASW Carbide has a vacuum activated fuel "pump" of sorts also, so there's a tee in that line that goes over the lower fitting on that valve. That's it.

There's another line on the ASW Carbide that runs from the top of the motor (valve cover) to the airbox. This is not vacuum, as the "air" space inside the motor is somewhat pressurized. This pressurized oil-misted air is fed back into the airbox as an emissions control measure I believe. Don't confuse that one with your vacuum lines.

For some increased performance and happiness behind the wheel:

Get a performance variator, and 10g rollers. (I do not recommend the MRP, get a Koso or Prodigy). Get a UNI filter, put on a K&N precharger if you don't want to have to clean the foam filter too often. Change out the main carb jet to about a 120 - 122 from the stock 114. If you swap out exhausts, you might consider a 127 - 130.

When you want to go off the "rails" and get a little more involved in modifications, we'll be here.

get rid of the vacuum petcock. I had lots of problems with it on mine. I'm looking for front tires now the stock ones are thin and easy to puncture. I gutted exhaust, new foam filter, lighter weights and rejet carb for lot better power.

the btoom line goes to the tee, from there it goes to the brass barb on the side of the intake and the other vacumn line goes to the other side of the carb where there is a cover. the top hose from the fuel valve goes to the drivers side of the carb