Yes! I had the boys at the gas station finish it off, they had an 1 1/2" socket and a clutch compressor too. I have a 1 1/2" socket now. I think getting the clutch compressed, and the nutt back on is a 2 person job, and the compressor person, has to be strong!

Painkiller, you my friend will be making this post in another thread, some time in the future. I think is an outstanding idea and wanted to absorbe it into my thread too.



Thanks for the post buddy!

HEY Talonman what did you figure out with the cooler idea?

Not sure yet on the cooler, I only thought of it yesterday.

As far as the 2nd seat swap out for a cooler, I need a few days to scratch my head about it. I have other mods in front first. If I could cash my way into a ready made Talon/Twister replacement cooler, with Talon or T J Powersports written on it, man I would give it a good hard look.

Ya I'm looking at getting a six pack rack for the back
of mine, it's just a little alluminum bracket- holds a little
playmate cooler good for 6 cans and some ice- straps down
with bungy strap, good for when your out on the trails!

I fastened the cooler to my rack with pipe/cable clamps. (the kind with a rubber sleeve) similar to this:
http://www.acehardware.com/product/inde ... 0556750299

Get one the same size as your bars, put the clamp on flat side up, drill holes through the bottom of the cooler, and you can bolt the cooler on. Drill one extra small hole at the lowest point so the water will drain. It won't move around and no bungees to undo on the way to a cold one!

Thanks for the tips im4seven!

***** ----------------- I did install the 4 Valve Head ----------------- *****

(Alan Leson - President Power Sports Factory) "I designed the combustion chamber with a diameter of 59mm so it will mate up with cylinder sizes of 57mm to 61mm. This is the first 4 valve head to be offered in the USA for a China designed GY6 150cc engine. This particular head is a Taiwanese produced casting and is of excellent quality as are the hardened valves and dual bearing HIGH-RPM camshaft. There is plenty of meat on the port castings if you would want to grind the inner wall surfaces down and polish. This was not done at the factory since it would be to costly and would bring the price up. Eventually we will offer racing cams in different degrees and lifts for the Buggy guys with GY6 150cc engines installed in their Karts. A great and interesting mod for the serious GY6 gear-heads of the group".

Alan Leson - President
Power Sports Factory
6940 Central Highway
Pennsauken NJ 08109

I ordered mine from Blade. It comes with a new, cam, timing chain, 4 nice upgraded bolts for inside the valve cover (The stock one I stretched was replaced here), head and base gasket, along with the new Iridium CR8EIX plug. It has a longer reach and is required for the new head. My install went well but getting the correct size chain breaker, adding in the 2 links the 4-valve head require in your timing chain, and successfully forcing the pin back in can be trickey. There is a hidden muffiler gasget inside the hole of the old head that can be easy to miss. It should go over to the new head too.

This chain breaker tool is the one I ordered. There may be a better one, but this will get the job done.
http://www.pocketmodz.com/index.asp?Pag ... ProdID=407

Adjust the valve tappets using a feeler gauge to a clearance of:
**** Intake: .002-.004 ** Exhaust: .003-.006 **
The same as a stock GY6.

My findings were on mounting studs:
I think the exhaust likes a 8mm-1 25 x 40mm stud.
The carb likes a 6mm-1 0 x 50mm stud.

I decided to send my new head out to have some porting done to it. I wanted to make sure I could get max performance out of it. I picked up some red paint that is made for high tempetures and got creative too.

This thing is a monster sitting next to the stock head! I can say with that this mod gave me much more grunt than I had before. When you go up hills the buggy's RPM's don't drop down near as much. I can't tell you that it is cost effective, but it does make a noticeable performance gain for sure. Your GY6'es compression will be raised, but you still can run regular gas.

This did not change my top end speed, nor did I expect it to.

royal purpal,

I too have a limited amout of cash, and went back and forth on the idea of having my new head ported for max air flow, and performance. I decided to go ahead with it due to me being locked into my 150cc buggy for a while before I can even consider adding something bigger into the collection. If I am going to run a 150cc buggy, I might as well make er the hottest I can.

I found a engine performance racing dude who runs a business called Rader Industries. I took in my headder pipe and the 4-Valve head. Him and his buddy are active race car dirvers with pictures of their cars and good finishes all over the shop. They were telling me that the picture of my Talon was neet and how they both liked working on something new that they hadent seen before. The Talon and the 4-Valve head both qualified in this catagory. They loved the brush guard and the saftey factor over the quads.

He looked at my EastSide headder and couldn't say enouigh about how they thought it was a top of the line headder, worthy of something a racer would run. They were buisy counting the step-up's along the way back down the pipe. They gave me the speach on how important it was for the gasses to have expansion room after exiting the engine and flowing through the headder. He spotted a rough edge right inside the headder's lypp that I had never noticed before. He told me that that could be a big deal and that was like hitting a wall. He wanted to fix the pipe for me too.

He started talking $300.00 + dollers for the deluxe treatment for the head and pipe fix. I used the wife as the excuse that $300 might cross the amount of money I could spend with a good consious, and would have to report that back to the money warden. I let him know I was on BuggyNews.com and would be posting some before and after pictures of their workmanship, for the entire world to see. He and his friends ears went up a bit, and they decided to work on the head, and the pipe, but would not cross the $250.00 mark. He assured me that he would be doing a good job for me. Bottom line was he was a nice guy, and I think he gave me a low-ball price as a favor. I kind of think they got a kick out of holding the entire head in their hand. They just were finishing lifting a monster engine off of the back of another man's trailer, that was sitting inside a tractor tire to hold it still. I am sure they are usually working on heads much bigger than the one I showed up with. The 4 Valve Head still looks big to my eyes!!

I got a good feeling from these two guy's. The workshop was well equiped, and neet as a pin. I am no expert, but by the time they let me leave their shop, I was utterly convinced they both new their stuff. Racing mods is their speciality. I hoped my $250.00 would be put to good use! He said it looked rough and thought there was indeed room for a performance improvement.

When I picked it up from him, he made the comment that he was able to remove 'allot' up inside where it is hard to see. He also said that he had fun working on such a small head and wished he could see it all put togeather. He also let me know that he probably spent too much time working on my head, but he was having a hard time putting it down. I bet I actually did received $300 bucks worth of his time for my $250. I liked hearing from the guy who just worked on an engine mod for me, saying he enjoyed it. I'm glad I had these guy's doing the work.

Here is my compairison shots before and after porting.

When I received my 4-valve head, looking at the size if the monster valve cover, it made me initially think the performance exhust pipe would never clear it. I then noticed one critical success factor of the valve cover. It has a taper on the bottom edge exactly where the pipe would benefit most from the extra clearence. The picture dosent really show exactly how much room would be taken up if the bottom edge was just squared off. It would be substantial. I don't know if it was planned this way or not, but it keeps my number one favorite pipe in the game, withought requireing any mods. Not to mention I already own the pricey pipe.

I got tired of the buggy having a slow constant draw on the battery even when it is not on. I installed a quick dis-connect that just crimps to whatever wire you want to use. I used 2 Safe-Mate SST308 from Car Quest and run around $7.50 each.

My battery with the 180CCA rating was not quite enouigh power in my opinion for starting the 4 valve head with it's higher compression. If the battery was 100% full it would start. If it was anything less than super fresh, it wouldn't start. I had to get a few early AM jumps at the 2006 Buggy Bash. I upgraded to the next biggest size battery that Car Quest had in the spill proof type, the ETX20L. It turned out to be rated at a whopping 270CCA and it does the job well.

If you install the 4 valve head, buy a battery with more than 180CCA to stay out of trouble.

These type of batteries do not charge on a high amp charger, and require a 1 or 2 amp charger. I baught a small 1 amp $22 charger that has a quick connect that you can leave attached to the battery for easy recharging.

I now will disconnect my battery from the buggy with the quick disconnect, then hook up my charger if I want to make sure my battery is full.

I also might mention that after installing the 4 valve head I initially thought I had a searous pipe allignment issue. I then realised as I thigtened the 2 bolts connecting the pipe to the head, it stered that connection to the muffiler back in line. I had to adjust them a small amount each time, and alternate between nuts. I kept it lined up correctly the entire time I was tightning them up.

The Mikuni VM/TM 28 got the best of me and I baught a Mikuni VM26 from Pro-flo.com and received outstanding service. It was $84.95 + shipping for a total of $92.95. I am hoping the fact it is designed for 4-stroke engine will make it more easy to jet in. It comes stock with a 190 main, and a 60 Pilot jet.

I still am in the process of jetting this carb in to where I feel it is correct for my buggy. I will post my final results when I feel I have something worthy to report.

This is how I currently have my carbs intake set up:

First I dremmeled the stock intake out as much as I could everywhere, especially inside where it is the smallest openning for the air to flow. (I believe our stock intakes get smaller in the middle) I had 2 spacers that blister made. One was 1/2" thick, and the other 1/4" thick, I believe. Somebody else might verify the exact thickness of the spacers he used? The ported air intake hole in my 4 valve head was bigger than the inside of the spacers, and the honed out stock intake. On the spacer that connects to the head, I filed out a nice taper, so the air passage gradually opens up to match the hole in the head. It connects to the head with some gasket material, and liquid copper gasket there too, due to my plastic stock spacer shattering. I never replaced it. There is a small bottleneck in the honed stock carb's intake, and the first spacer. I have always told myself that the amount of air fuel mixture making it through this spot, was hopefully close to 100% of what my head needed anyway. I could be wrong here, but it helped me to sleep at night.

What I especially like is I totally believe my carb is the exact max height, that a carb can be mounted, and still make the run under the bar to connect to my UNI setup. I think the sharper bend in the stock intake, VS the HP one helps out here spacifically. Better yet, due to the extra distance I have between the bottom of my carb, and the engine's cover, the Dial-A-Jet just might fit OK. One Thick, and one thin spacer, and some gasket material between the two along with a tad of liquid copper gasket, is the magic height I hope?

I found two larger bolts that fit the 4-valve head, and would tighten down 100% with intake and spacers, before it could bottom out. I cranked them all down into an intake sandwich. For extra measure, and due to me hating intake air leaks, I wrapped the bottom of the stock boot, and both the spacers in black tape. No air can get in from the side of the spacers, or underneath the bottom of the intake's flaired lypp or boot?

One thing I will say, with the thicker replacement intake bolts, your intake feels solid as a rock.

I also got around to switching my front tires from side to side, after a Buggynews member pointed out to me that the they were actually on backwards. For your front Holeshots, the engineers who designed them do actually have an opinion on what side that they should be mounted on. I decided to go with the designers advice and switch them.

My mother-in law decided she wanted to make a buggy top for me. I have it on currently but there is some room for improvement here ......

It was free....