hey Vanet The cinders was great time it rained every night sunny during the day no dust. The park service has closed more trails since last year. There still lots of places to ride. Lots of other buggys,joyner,roketta,yerf dog,utvs,and some v6,v8 stuff too. Bring lots of jets i put in the smallest jets i had in the 650 and it still wanted more air. I got it to run better but still was a little sluggish. There no place there to really open up except in the cinders. If you go rippen rear end down the road you will get busted. Out on yhe cinders there contineous woops.High up in third gear and into 4th the rear end would start to leave the ground. So i could not really any get any wide open runs in high gear. You missed a great time Ghost!

I finally recieved my carb from Fast Freddy!! UPS lost it in the mail for 4 weeks and made me miss most of the summer!

But either way I got it installed but have a few questions:

With Fast Freddies thermostat housing the sensor for the fan has been removed, how do I connect the wires so my fan only runs when it is sopposed to?

Also in tuning the carb I found that 2.25 turns on the mixture screw and 1 turn on the idle screw is the best postition, from the tuning guidelines that shows that I am running lean. What size of jets do I need to have 1.5 turns on the mixture and only 0.5 turns on the idle?

Also I didnt get the exhaust system how much restriction does the catalic converter cause?

I am hoping to get it tuned up for some fall riding,

Thanks

For the fan most just wire it up to run any time the key is on or to a switch that manually turns on when you notice the temp getting high. If you want to keep the thermostat you will have to find another waterport to screw it into. One idea might be the temp gauge spot. If you have a temp gauge then get a t and put them both there or if you dont then just screw in the sensor and wire it to the fan. As far as the carb, there are too many variables to be able to tell you the exact jet size. Just read the plugs. Set it where it runs the best, no matter what the instructions say and then drive a little while. Then pull one or more of the plugs. If you are running rich the plug will be black with fuel on it. If you are running lean it will be white in color. You are looking for a light brown with no oily fuel residue. Good luck

I was thinking the tee! But I was hoping that a pre-made solution exists!

I also am wondering what to do with the hose that runs from the distrubuter to the old stock carb? I have it plugged but isnt this needed to advance the timing at high RPM?

I am thinking of just removing the material from the catalic converter to allow for more air flow on the exhaust side until I can get my own exhaust made!

Someone else went to this trouble and found no gain in performance (only noise). Search the forum for "catalytic".

If all you do is take the ceramic out of the converter it probably wont amount to much of a power gain, but it does offer alot of resistance. With your new carb and a high flow filter you will need to get rid of it to help the engine breath. What works good is to get a stinger muffler with the removable discs then you can tune the exhaust for the best noise to performance ratio. Fast freddy has them and they arnt that much, maybe 30 or 40 dollars. You dont want an exhaust with no back pressure, that kills your bottom end. You want just the right amount of back pressure so that you have decent torque off the line but still maintain a free flowing exhaust. I think chris (laymanism or something like that) had one on his 800cc that he said worked well. Mostly you see them on vw type aplications. Ive got a buddy that has one that he is still fine tuning but it seem to work well.

Hi Wanted to bring to your attention you are dumping about twice the fuel or more than with stock carb. I would run some kind of aftermarket exhaust or i feel you will not get full benifit from the new weber. Isaw a setup were this guy took his buggy to midas. They cut of the stock flange and from that they fabbed 2 into 1 exhaust there was a collector on that he mounted a supper trap, now you can tune from both ends. You can change jets and adjust exhaust back pressure. He said it was cheaper than freddy's header. If you insist on keeping the cat, do a bunch of test runs and adjustments,plug readsings till you get it to run as good as you can.If your still rich,call nick at freddy's tell him the setup, your elevation and he will send you new jets. Nick really nows his stuff! Ido not feel you will be happy with perfm. with stock exhaust. Ghosthunter Will

Check out Team Farm's exhaust. He also has the Fast Freddie carburetor setup.

Hi i have a switch on my buggy works great, make sure you put a inline fuse with the switch 15amp. You don't need the vacuum advance. I can't tell the difference either way. Bring the no.1 cyl. to top dead center after the intake has closed. I use the same top end center gauge we used on the bikes. Once you have that established mark with white paint or nail polish the scale down by the crank. With timing light installed engine running move the distribtor till it stays at 32-33 degrees full advance. If you run out of adjustment i had to pull the dist. and move it back 1 tooth. this setup works great for me. Any problems keep threading in Ghosthunter Will

Hey team farm if you wrap that header with 2" header wrap you will get more performance. Cheap mod.about 15.00.Wrap it wet use ahose clamp to start about 1" overlaps another hose clamp at the end. Smokes like hell on the first start up.The wrap will shrink around the pipe. About 50% cooler at least. Proven fact wrapped headers keep the exhaust charge hotter inside the pipe causing better cylinder scavaging, a better burn. Pluss that header crosses right past the seat back. You will really tell the diff. midday in hotter wheather. Ghosthunter Will

I am wondering if anyone else has had problems with the choke on the Weber carb?

I had a heck of a time starting the machine but once I put a bag over the air filter it fired right up!!!

The choke lever fully engages but it doesnt seem to make a difference. Is there some sort of internal settings that I am missing?

hi, When you activate the choke you give it a little trottle this accuates a little cam on the choke circut. If this doesn't work you have to remove the carb. On the manifold side there is a choke cover carefully remove try not to damage the gasket, make sure all linkage is operating . The next thing is the accerreator pump circuit. When you open the throttle you should see a little squirt of gas in the venturi. You can go on weber website manual no. 95.0000.54 it was 19.00 its a great book lots of pictures and schematics breakdowns plus every tuning tip known on these carbs. If order anything it has all part numbers. I hope this helps Ghosthunter Will

I never hooked the choke up on mine. I turn the key on for a few seconds to let fuel pressure to come up, a couple pumps on the throttle, and it always starts right up. Might have to pump a couple more times to keep it running for 1st 15 seconds, but that's all. Good luck.

Jim

I took apart hte carb and for what I can see the choke actuates 2 little gears and they lift two little cylinders and beyond that it most do something internal.

So it seems to be functioning but still have troubles starting. As far as the accelerator pump it does squirt when the gas is pressed.

So I don't know what else could be causing it, I am thinking I am running rich but havent had time to tweak the jets would this cause the hard starting issues?

I bought the turbo and the difference is unbelievable night and day.

If you are running rich it would easy to load up the engine with making hard to start. Who's plugs are you running and what gap. What air cleaner are you running.

I got champion plugs with standard gap and K & N air filter!

I am blowing black smoke when running and the acceleration and deacceleration are not smooth it seems to miss.

But looking at my plugs I have carbon build up on the edges but the center of the plug is a brown color. I am getting mixed results, I only have a couple hours of riding with the new carb and am wondering if it is needing more break-in time to find its balance?

Sounds to me like your still alittle rich, plugs im running ngk be7s, some guys are running up to be9s even hotter, cross refference your champion and see how hot they are to mine. Im running 33 degrees total advance i think it will take more. Valve adjustment right im running .006 intake,.010 exhaust this has worked the best so far. I hope this helps Ghosthunter

Road bradshaw trail last week with sidexside guys out in places by myself and copilot,long straight way, could see way up trail,hit speed 76 miles per hour ,fourth gear 5200 on tach,buggy ran great.

if possible could someone who has a turbo'd joyner 650 please take a picture or tell me where they get the oil pick up from. I am researching into putting a turbo on my joyner 650 but refuse to pay the £2000 people over here in the UK are asking for them when the parts can be sourced individual for a lot less. i have just a couple of questions if anyone can answer them.

1. the plumbing of the oil return should be quite easy but where do you get the oil feed from, you can get an oil feed from an oil cooler sandwich plate between the filter but wondering if there was another place that would be easier and cheaper.
2. do you need to get a water cooled turbo and run an intercooler or is this optional do the kits use an intercooler im aware that using one would lower intake temps.
3. im aware of the need of an uprated fuel pump and pressure regulator but what fuel pressure is needed.
4. how about fuel enrichment for when the boost kicks in.
5. do you need to do anything abot the ignition timing as when i turbo'd my car a few years ago i had to install a timing retard system for when the boost kicked in.
6. does the standard carb work well with the turbo or do i need to rejet.
i know theres a lot there but any help would be welcome thank you.