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 Post subject: Crossfire 150R will not start.
PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 11:33 am 
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I have a Crossfire 150R with no spark. It will turnover with the key. I replaced the CDI, Coil, and key switch no luck. I have read several posts on “no spark” or “will no start”. None seam to conclude. I wired the kill switch according to the wiring diagram and I’ve tried it disconnected.

I used a spark tester with the original key switch. I turn key to on position then start position (no spark) as I release the key back to on position I get a single spark. But not all the time.
With the new switch no spark at all.

Any other parts I can test?


Thank you,


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2008 11:46 am 
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check for a wire in the harnes being grounded. also check the ground wires, the wires going into the cdi plug

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 12:08 pm 
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I’ve looked at all wires in the harnes. No visible problems. All pins secured in connectors and grounds look good.

Yesterday just for grins I tried the key and got good spark. Released key and tried again no spark. What’s the deal? I OHM tested the red/black on stator its ok. I checked for signal from stator to CDI on yellow/blue wire its ok. Can any of the other three wires running to the stator cause my problem? I do not have a flywheel puller so I can’t visually inspect wires.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 10:43 pm 
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JD150R wrote:
I’ve looked at all wires in the harnes. No visible problems. All pins secured in connectors and grounds look good.

Yesterday just for grins I tried the key and got good spark. Released key and tried again no spark. What’s the deal? I OHM tested the red/black on stator its ok. I checked for signal from stator to CDI on yellow/blue wire its ok. Can any of the other three wires running to the stator cause my problem? I do not have a flywheel puller so I can’t visually inspect wires.


i wouldn't think the three wires would be causing this problem, they are for lights and charging battery.
what about the ground wires have you checked them.
might want to go check over wires plugging in to cdi and the coil wires.

pud

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Last edited by pud on Mon Nov 17, 2008 10:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 10:46 pm 
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I think key switch also!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 10:50 pm 
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my green switch went bad on my buggy once (on off kill switch)... did you try that one yet???


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 11:23 pm 
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yep i agree with funnyman and racemybuick,check key switch and kill switch.i looked at a wiring diagram for a crossfire 150
your green ground wire on key switch goes back to cdi,when switch is on position green wire makes contact with black ground wire,powers coil
on your kill switch the yellow wire also goes back to cdi,when you shut engine down you are grounding out power coming into cdi.

pghruby helped me out with this with a link from buggy depot
here is what i'm talikng about


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2006 sunl 150b
12 gram sliders,prodigy variator, red torque spring,39 tooth sprocket,2000lb winch, red neck uni filter with K&N precharger, 125 main jet at 1,634 elevation, drilled out exhaust,ngk iridium plug,performance intake,
ncy orange cdi
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 9:20 am 
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Thank you all for the help.
Almost all parts of the ignition system have been replaced. (Key switch, kill switch, coil, and CDI)
The only things left are the stator and the wiring harness. Tomberlin does not have a part number for the small wiring harness only the long harness running from the front of the buggy to the back. I suppose Tomberlin could have sent me a bad coil or CDI.

Is there a test I can do with a meter to find the possible bad ground?
I did check the ground, cdi, and coil wires all “look” good.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 12:31 pm 
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JD150R wrote:
Thank you all for the help.
Almost all parts of the ignition system have been replaced. (Key switch, kill switch, coil, and CDI)
The only things left are the stator and the wiring harness. Tomberlin does not have a part number for the small wiring harness only the long harness running from the front of the buggy to the back. I suppose Tomberlin could have sent me a bad coil or CDI.

Is there a test I can do with a meter to find the possible bad ground?
I did check the ground, cdi, and coil wires all “look” good.


When you say "look" are you doing a visual inspection or are you performing a continuity check?

The wires can visually look good all day long, but you may have an issue with a connector.

The only real way to tell if they are good is to test their continuity. If you're not sure how to do this, let us know and we'll guide you through it.

You'll need a Digital Volt Meter (DVM). They can be bought at Sears for about $20 if you need a cheap one.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 2:19 pm 
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if you already haven't done it you can go to google,type in
(The Tomberlin Product Group) go there then you can download a manual for your buggy.i thought it is a pretty good manual and has a good wiring diagram easy to read and how to check things.
i sure as he77 wish a had a manual like this for this sunl i'm running.
pud

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12 gram sliders,prodigy variator, red torque spring,39 tooth sprocket,2000lb winch, red neck uni filter with K&N precharger, 125 main jet at 1,634 elevation, drilled out exhaust,ngk iridium plug,performance intake,
ncy orange cdi


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 2:41 pm 
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Yes a visual inspection. I do have a digital volt meter but not very proficient at its use. If you could walk me through it I would appreciate it.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 3:01 pm 
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JD150R wrote:
...Tomberlin does not have a part number for the small wiring harness only the long harness running from the front of the buggy to the back...


The engine wire harness can be found at http://tpg-info.net/parts_crossfire.htm

Figure: 23
Item: 27
Part Number: BK00045

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 3:24 pm 
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jd150r here are some things to check
find the battery ground and there should be a wiring harness ground with it, make sure those at are tight no corrosion or paint where they bolt down.
go up to kill switch unplug the yellow wire turn engine over see if you get spark, if not try this
take your your multi-meter set at 12 volt dc take ground and ground to frame,then put hot lead to switch hot wire yellow/green.should get a 12volt reading,then take ground lead and put it on black switch wire, should get 12volt reading.then turn key to (on position )bring ground lead over and touch green wire on switch.should get a 12 volt reading there,if not the key switch probably is your problem.if you get a 12volt reading problem is back on engine some where.
also do check the little pins plugging into cdi and make sure the are all plugged in good,problems like this can be hard to spot.
check the wiring harness plug from stator make sure those are good to.i would check these thing first before checking switchs
try this then get back to us.

pud

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2006 sunl 150b
12 gram sliders,prodigy variator, red torque spring,39 tooth sprocket,2000lb winch, red neck uni filter with K&N precharger, 125 main jet at 1,634 elevation, drilled out exhaust,ngk iridium plug,performance intake,
ncy orange cdi


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 9:57 am 
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Key switch is good 12 volts.
I checked the stator ohm test red/black its good blue/yellow I can not get an ohm reading.
I did an AC volt test on blue/yellow and hit the key its ok. So cdi is getting a signal.
I did a DC volt test on blue wire to coil hit the key and the coil is getting voltage.
I suppose its possible Tomberlin sent me a bad coil.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 11:11 am 
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Youve been more patient then I would have been!!!Thru all the tests that you have done and getting voltage to the coil but no spark I would think its the coil also.Good luck and keep us posted!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 11:31 am 
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Funnyman wrote:
Youve been more patient then I would have been!!!Thru all the tests that you have done and getting voltage to the coil but no spark I would think its the coil also.Good luck and keep us posted!


That's one of the reasons why I like having spares of this type of stuff on hand. It makes troubleshooting much easier. With 4 buggies and 5 engines I now have plenty of swap parts available.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 12:06 pm 
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I hate to buy another coil if it turns out the two I have are good.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 12:09 pm 
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JD150R wrote:
I hate to buy another coil if it turns out the two I have are good.


I should have re-read the prior posts, but I'm reading this on my phone and it's hard to navigate around.
One is the original and one is new, right?
If so, then no, you don't need another one.

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'09 Polaris RZR: AAEN MPP Muffler, S-Cage, Mudlites, Bumpers, +5 LT
'04 Yerf-Dog 3206: Moded (SOLD)
'05 Blade 150 DX: Moded (Hopster RIP) @ Brother's
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 12:59 pm 
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I should of paid more attention also.You shouldnt have to buy a new, but you have power b4 the coil and none afterwards! Im so baffled!I dont know what to say at this time.

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Quiksilver sr 440(went to a good home)
Joyner 650 SS
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 1:39 pm 
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Okay...

1) Take your voltmeter and hook it up to the connector that the coil plugs into..
a) Turn your engine over and read the voltages, it should be at zero and then spike, then zero, then spike... Record the results

2) Attach your OLD coil wire..
a) Perform the same test in 1a. Record the results.

3) Attach your NEW coil wire
a) Perform the same test in 1a. Record the results.

4) Draw your own conclusion, post it and the results.

I'm still not convinced that you don't have an issue in the wiring harness itself, but we'll address that later.

Thanks,

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'09 Polaris RZR: AAEN MPP Muffler, S-Cage, Mudlites, Bumpers, +5 LT
'04 Yerf-Dog 3206: Moded (SOLD)
'05 Blade 150 DX: Moded (Hopster RIP) @ Brother's
http://www.northeastbuggy.com
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