Hi guys,

Its been a while since I have been around. Work, weight loss (84lbs or so) kids, family plus other crap has had me away. So I thought I would give you guys a update on my long lost Joylaris project.

Last Jan or so I bought a Polaris Predator 500 motor with a 5 speed and reverse. Once I got it and had a chance to look at it, it had a dropped a valve that massively damaged the head and broke a hole in piston. I ended up buying a used head on eBay and had it shipped to Rick Ritter and had him clean it up, deck it and replaced the valves and guides. I also bought a new piston and had the cylinder honed. So between buying the motor ($400) head and head work ($200 +$275) and the new piston ($275) I now hopefully have fully functional 41+- hp motor.

As most of you know I have no metal fab skills so I have had to hire the work out. Well that has gone badly mostly. But I have good news. A friend of mines kid moved back from CA and together they have been working on it since last Friday. I am attaching some pics. I finally can see some real progress.

I ordered a new rear sprocket from Rebel Gears today. The buggy is a 530 43 tooth and the motor is a 520 so I ordered a 48 tooth and I am using a 13 tooth up front on the motor.

There is still much to do and I also need some help from my friends on here.

1. This Polaris motor has an oil tank. On the bike it was mounted just to the front of the motor. In the buggy the seat is in the way. I was wondering if it could be mounted up high out of the way. Papa Rich on his Joylaris had an oil cooler from his 500HO mounted by the left rear shock. I am thinking of something like that.

2. I need long clutch and throttle cables. Does any one know where they can be found?


Anywhoo take a look and give me your feedback.

Cheers, Bo

a few more...more to come

Wow would not have recognized you, congrats.

As for throttle cable I got one from Buggyparts NW for my builds. I can't help you on the clutch cable, never built one with that. ( I am too lazy for a clutch according to Ghost) Looks like your friends are doing a nice job on that. You may actually get to ride that thing eventually.

I run an ltz motor that's a dry sump with an oil tank and ran into the same issue. rather than change the height of the tank for fear of affecting the running oil level and ability of the pump to return the oil to a higher level, i used barbed brass fittings and some extra braided hydraulic line to lengthen the hose runs. With longer hoses I was able to bring the runs in behind the seat then turn them to mount the tank in the corner next to the seat.

Thanks man, It was starting to get tough to find pants and well my umm, umm so I had to do something.

The last time around I bought a slide carb cable from him...I totally forgot he might have a longer one. I will call him today. These guys are doing a really nice job. I have way more pics but will need to resize them to get them to fit on here.

I am not sure if I have enough room behind my sea for the oil cooler I have. It is kinda plump down on the bottom behind the seat. I have room up high on the buggy but thats about it.

@PapaRich

The oil cooler for your HO. Does it have 2 or 3 connections. I like how yours is mounted and not sure if I can use one of those. My cooler is plastic and has 2 lower connection and one upper connection. Do you know how much or how far the pump will push the oil.

Thanks gents

The 500 tanks have three connections, delivery, return and a vent hose at the top. I would keep it low if possible. I have had problems with them up high draining back down into the engine.

I have a firewall on my Joyner, maybe you can build one and mount the oil sump on the left behind the driver.

Greg

Yeah that will likely work. We are looking to put it in the back somewhere and running hoses up to it. We just needed to be sure if it was higher than the current location on the quad the pump would be able to push the oil up to. Certainly do not want to starve it for oil.

We are still looking for a solution for the clutch tho. I spent about and 1.5 hrs at a motorcycle salvage place here in town and no luck finding a match or a near match. Ugh...still looking though.

Thanks guys. I will post more pics once I figure out how to shrink them.

Cheers, Bo

Does the motor have the oem clutch cable? On my motors I use the oem cable and couple it to my input. The Joyner has an hydraulic pedal, with a cable connection from the slave cylinder to the clutch actuator arm and the single seat is all mechanical, consisting of 2 cables.

Greg

So the motor did not come with a clutch cable. The existing one was cut so off to eBay I go to buy a stock one only to find out its not the correct one. I will buy another but the issue is its about 6" short.

How did you connect the 2 together. I am attaching the some pics.

I think the easiest would be to use the barrel type cable stops. You can find those at auto zone. It would require you to cut off the lead end. You could also drill a hole in a 3/8" or 1/2" bolt. I can post some example pics tomorrow.

Greg

please do...Thanks bud

Here are pictures of the shift linkage clutch cables and throttle using a barrel connector

Hi Ac,the bracket and the lead tube on the end of the cable,looks like it came off an old Harley i use to own.You might try the Harley shop.Ghost

I thought the same thing. I have an older cable from my Sportster but it will not work.

I found a cable I think will work. I will post some pics later. Thx everybody.

Thought I would provide and update. The engine is fully mounted in the buggy, clutch cable, throttle cable, reverse cable all have been ran. The radiator has been mounted and plumbed along with the oil tank. I replaced the seats with RZR take offs. I have grafted the buggy wiring to the ATV motor.

The shifter and clutch are in the original shifting location. I am using the original push pull cable cutting off the end and welded on a heims joint. I bought a custom made 48 tooth sprocket that should pull me along pretty well.

We mounted the CDI and coil to the frame, put a plastic junction box on a frame mount and located the rectifier to the outside, on the inside put the starter relay and I have all the extra wires in it.

I have yet to wire the brake lights, tail lights and blinkers. But that is easy peasy stuff. I plan on replacing the original headlight with round LEDs a LED light bar on top, making a lighted whip connection also. But frankly all of this is far off till I figure out why I do not get any spark.

I checked the coil and it seems ok, I am supposed to have .3 ohms on the primary side and 6300 ohms on the secondary side and I do.

I am guessing the CDI is bad but frankly I do not have any way of knowing. I feel pretty certain its wired correctly. Out of the CDI wiring connector is a black wire that needs to be grounded to kill the motor so I have that on a momentary switch (unless it needs to be grounded). I am going to attached the PDF if someone wants to take a look. I am also including some pics.

More Pics

Sure looks like a much easier swap than the 500/400 is. That does look nice and clean. Can't wait to hear how you like it.

Yeah the my friends son who did the welding/fabbing did an excellent job. He is very well skilled. I owe him big. Like most things actually putting the motor in place was fairly simple, it was getting the rest of the stuff lined up that took time. I am excited to see how it runs but really I should just move on from this project and lick my wounds. However my son is excited about driving it.

It should scoot along pretty well and be fun to drive. But I gotta figure out the no spark issue. If you might remember this engine has been rebuilt. It has a new piston and rings, the head was completely trashed after a valve dropped and I had to get a "new" used head from Ebay. I then sent it to Rick Ritter to have the valves replaced, cleaned, decked, new springs and shims. I got about $1k in the motor. Doing the math I would be well on my way to a used Rhino or RZR...but "Sa La Vie".

Work in progress for sure.