With tax refund coming, I am thinking about building up a spare parts stash for my SV. What are the most typical wear / failure parts? I plan on replacing all the front end joints, and keeping any that are good for spares. I had already purchased the ball joints from MSP, bit I think I will go with the Auroras instead and keep the standards as spares.

I was thinking that axles would be on the top of the list, but what about other parts like hubs? I plan on having this buggy for awhile, and you never know about parts availability.

Also, on axles, what is the maximum angularity that the CVs can be ran at, in case I want to go with longer shocks? I am well versed with VWs, but this is a new game for me.

Duneslayer, you mentioned a front end mod, but all I could find was the steering box, do you have a link? Also, is there any items on these buggies that you need a close eye on?

A spare axle would be a good thing to have as a spare, sprockets, chains, front and rear axle bearings, spool bearings, throttle and shift cable, a full set of heim joints ( tie rod ends) for the front end and spherical bushings. I also carried a few extra heims for the A arms. I also carried a steering shaft.

Hi toomanytoys2
With the steering box mods I also made a steel plate to strengthen the area that the steering box attaches to. The other front suspension change was the lower a-arms with no bend in them, which I fabbed after a front end collision with a quad. I'm not sure exactly which mod you are referring to about the front end.
The other item I like to keep an eye on is the rear sprocket spool bearing. The inner race of the bearing needs some way to keep it from spinning on the shaft. I made some adjustable spacers to apply pressure to them. When the snap ring is installed I can adjust the spacer to press on the inner race then use set screws built into the spacer to lock it into place, and they seem to be working fine.

Thanks you guys, I am also looking for the maximum angle the CVs can be safely ran at for when I up grade the rear shocks. I know I can't get max travel until I go to bigger tires but trying to get the information. Also any problems with going to 18.5" front shocks? I have a set of Fox podiums just begging to be used.

The problem you have with longer fronts is the spherical bushings will bind at the bottom of the travel. Not sure what the limits are, Dune or GmanLv may know for sure.

Of coarse when these are made they aren't exactly the same.

On mine I used adjustable (by machining them shorter) ends for the Fox shocks. At first I machined them to get 18 1/4" eye to eye, then figured out at full turn the shock compressed a bit, so realtered them to 18 1/8". I recommend 18" max. Be sure to "clock" your inner heims to an angle that allows full 18" travel. If the heims are turned slightly off they will bind and wear out fast.
You could move the lower shock mounts to get the extra length.

On the rear I believe the OEM are 21 5/8". Since the axle is attached to the rubber mounted engine cradle some movement does occur and that changes the axle length during rouigh bumps. I mounted my engine cradle solid to the frame to eliminate that potential movement and am using 22 !/2 spacing. You might find your limit once the axle shaft pulls out of the cv like I did. Had to remove the boot and reinsert the shaft and new aftermarket boot strap.

*Edited rear shock length from 23 1/2" to the correct 22 1/2".

The rear should max out at approximately 22.5". I would check before buying shocks. As Duneslayer stated he removed the rubber mounts, and gain an 1".

If you cycle the suspension, the inner cup will begin to pull away from the center spool, at max.

Greg

Greg, I replaced the rubber cradle mounts with aluminum ones I made, so the center spool is still in original location.
When I cycled my original Joyner setup the inner cup did'nt move, the axle pulled out of the inner cup and I wasn't able to get it inserted back into the cup. Thats why I had to pull one end of the rubber cv boot back to reinsert the shaft.
I double checked the rear shock length and I was wrong, it's at 22 1/2" as Greg said.
I'll edit my other post to correct it.