Tried to find some threads on this here, but came up with nothing. I pulled the Hit clutch from the HH250 and was curious what clutch and pillow spring combo people are or have run. Mine currently appears to be the "stock" settings which is the softest clutch spring (blue) and a yellow pillow spring (which is next to the softest). I was wanting to have the clutch engage at a little higher RPM so might go up to a yellow clutch spring and blue pillow spring. If anybody has any experience, I'm all ears.

The other thing, my driven assy had a black torque spring which seems really stiff. I can't separate the pulley halves by hand, where I know I could with the blue spring my prior Hammerhead had. This one reads TechPulley +20% and then states 800RPM. Anybody seen one of these?

There are others that have more experience with these but here are my thoughts on it. You have to be careful as to arm springs. If you go too heavy you run the risk of the clutch slipping in the lower rpms. I personally want that thing to lock in rather than slip. I feel the rest of the setup is mostly variator weights and clutch spring. I like to run the heavier clutch spring to help with the down shift.

This Hit clutch has two mechanisms in it. It has your standard clutch arms and springs, and then a secondary system that locks the first one in place after the clutch has engaged the bell. That's supposed to keep it from slipping. I've just never tried "tuning" one. I agree, I want it to lock in and stay locked in. At the same time, I'd like it to lock in at a higher RPM so I can maybe throw some dirt on take off. Yes, I'm a juvenile.

Here's the manual, which reads like English translated into Chinese, back into English.

My preference is a soft clutch arm spring and heavy contra/pulley spring. With the HIT, you also have a pillow spring which should be relatively heavy to keep the clutch arms locked in place once engaged. If you go with the softest clutch arm spring and heaviest pillow spring, you will get best lock up, but it may be a little rough on take off since it will have very little slip when engaging.

Thanks for the input. I'm going to try a stiffer clutch arm spring, and then I think a little stiffer pillow spring.

Ok so finally got this thing apart. Put in heavier springs on both. Won't get a chance to test it anytime soon, but it's done.

Finally had a chance to figure out how this clutch works. Pretty neat. Regular clutch arms that overcome the spring tension based on inertia as it spins. Then, another mechanism inside of that overcomes the pillow spring tension and an arm slides out to the underside of the clutch arms, thereby locking them in place.

Well, I drove the buggy out of the garage today, and whatever I did to that clutch, I don't like. It bogs even more at take-off now. It might be going back to the way it was.

Edit: After thinking on it awhile, I think the higher RPM shift of the clutch makes the belt go up in the variator sooner, making it start out in a higher ratio. If that makes sense. That's not what I want at all.

Idk if you have figured this out or not but if that spring is that stiff it should be keeping it in a lower gear longer right? Softer shifts sooner and stiffer shifts later? The 20% should mean it takes 20% longer to start upshifting i would think

I was referring to the small clutch springs, not the large torque spring. I went with heavier clutch springs thinking the engine would rev a little higher before engagement, giving me some launch. I think the clutch does engage at a higher RPM, but what I think is happening is that the higher RPMs are causing the variator to start closing faster, moving the belt up, and causing the machine to try to take off in a higher gear ratio. It's not at all what I was looking for. I could try a lighter roller/slider to counter balance that effect, but I think I'm just going to put the clutch back the way it was. Does that make any sense?

Yeah, regarding that black torque spring, I agree. It should be holding it a lower ratio longer, and downshifting faster. I did go ahead and buy a yellow torque spring, which I think is higher RPM shift than that black one, which supposedly is rated at 800 RPM.

Put the clutch and pillow springs back to the way they were (blue and yellow), and put in this yellow torque spring from buggyparts NW. Tried to run it a bit yesterday, but then ran outa gas.

The yellow spring is quite a bit longer (obviously), but it compresses easier. The black one is also a bit beefier. The washer insert wouldn't move inside the black spring, but has sufficient play inside the yellow one. Not sure that means anything, just thought I'd note it.

When I put it all back together I could squeeze the belt into the clutch pulley by hand, which I couldn't do before.

I have used that TQ spring a few times. Its sold here - http://hammerheadperformance.com/perfor ... 50cc-black.

Yep, saw that. That's the only place I've seen it.

I ran this thing today, and I just flat out don't like how it spools up. No low end. My blue one would do 90% of what I needed to do in hi gear. This one just bogs. I'm running taller rear tires, but also have the 12t sprocket. I'm getting 35ish top speed (if the factory speedo is even relatively close). Something ain't right.

So quick update. I found out I have 15g sliders in the variator. I took the Dr. Pulley variator off and compared it to the stock one. The Dr. Pulley is wider than the stock one, so the belt sits higher in the variator, and lower in the clutch pulley. So I put the stock variator on and I did get a fair amount of low end back. It seems to do ok now. It could go faster, but I think I'd have to go with the 13t drive sprocket to achieve that.