Get it solved cause your loosing money. I'll be getting a clutch in a few days and I wont pay for a clutch that has pads falling off and only a 250 dollar answer for that issue I also wont wait as long as Tom has for it to be fixed. 2 weeks tops is all it should take to get any parts. You have a great product and thats never been in question, but it's a pricey one and not considered a throw away product

I've really seen Dr Pulley getting interested in improving their communication with their customers, and taking care of issues that come up.

They've got a brand new revision of their clutches out that have iron clutch arms and higher degree pillow angles (the secondary mechanism that locks the arms to the clutch bell for 0 slippage).

I've got a whole bunch of these new Dr Pulley clutches designed for our buggies in stock - the other dealers should have access to them, too. These are NOT the same ones that we used to get from MRP that were made for the scooters! They also come with additional sets of springs, and we've got some new troubleshooting tips from Dr Pulley for when you encounter less than ideal performance. (Ideally you'll start looking into it before you grind the clutch into dust...)

Here's some of the info: (sorry for length)

Install the HiT clutch as it comes out the package ( ie, no need to change the springs ) to see how it performs

Results:
a) HiT clutch is OK -- means the vehicle is smooth and powerful at take-off and acceleration & hillclimbing is excellent.

b) Vibration at take-off but the acceleration is strong -- means the clutch
engagement (clutch arm springs) is too strong or the vehicle engine RPMs aren't enough to make the secondary HiT clutch mechanism engage from the start. Replace the clutch arm spring with higher tension ones or replace the pillow springs with higher tension springs or replace both. The pillow spring should always be a higher rated spring than the clutch arm spring.

c) No vibration at take-off but acceleration is poor -- means the drive belt might be slipping (ie. the main torque spring is too weak) It’s better to use heavier slider weight and/or "torque spring washer" (these are shims that come with the new clutches for the main torque spring) to clamp the drive belt tighter.

d) if you want to try different pillow spring or clutch spring to check out different performance at different combinations of Pillow/ Clutch springs. Please see the HiT instruction enclosed in the package. And always choose the clutch spring first for the correct engaged rpm and then select the pillow springs. (Pillow spring rating > clutch spring rating)

Hope this helps.

-Mike

Shouldn't you be going with a LIGHTER arm spring if you get shudder?

I thought the same thing at first, but perhaps the shuddering is coming from the arms only lightly grabbing and releasing the bell while the pillow springs are trying to engage the pillows.

If you're already at the lightest set of springs (which is what they come preinstalled with), then the only direction you can go is up. Fortunately with the Dr Pulley springs, you're only jumping about 200 rpm between spring ratings (I've got a chart here I'll compile and post at some point on Buggy News and my site).

I think they're saying: Increase the stall speed with higher tension springs so you have higher RPMs when it grabs to better engage with the bell. Keep in mind you need to have pillow springs of higher tension than the arm springs to make sure the arms are fully engaged before they're "locked" to the bell.

Hopefully Paul (DrPulley) can confirm.

-Mike