Ok I'm thinking about possibly having a custom lower 1st gear made. I sheered off the output shaft so I needed to tear this down anyways.
My first question does anybody know the actual ratios of each gear? I know my first gear has 44 teeth & is suppose to be the lower ratio gearbox, but I'm not so certian. Has anybody had gears made? I'm really not sure how to go about this & I don't know if this can be done without major mods. I expect this will be quite $$$ but if we can get a granny low it might be worth it.

Hi JB,ive never been inside joyner tranny,but ive been in a some others,so i don't know how much help ill be. I think the first picture is the final drive gear. If you take the number of teeth in smaller drive gear,divide that number into the the number of teeth on the larger gear,this will give you the final drive ratio and you can compare it to other tranmissions. Ghost

Hi one other thought,some the old farm machinery guys,ive heard are having gears made a lot. You might contact either a museum,or group thats restoring some of this old stuff. You might get a lead on who is building gears for them.Ghost

Try rons machining service
http://www.ronsmachiningservice.net/servlet/StoreFront

At minimum you will need two gears made: First gear and the Mating gear to first. If the mating gear is used for another gear selection, that gear will also need to be resized to mesh properly.

would this idea work?

I mean the vehicles i drove that had granny gears had the following

Granny gear
then
1st ,2nd, 3rd

If you did what you are saying, 2nd then becomes 1st right. The GG trucks i drove we never started in 1st as you coul go more than 2 feet without needing to shift.

I guess if you made slightly a lower gear it could work.

I broke the same part on my 650 SS.
I replaced the diff with an open unit that I bought from ebay for $150.00

new diff

also wow you have a clean trans!
How many miles on your buggy do you have?
I have around 3,000 and never changed the trans fluid.
The manual says every 10 hours which cannot be right as that would be every other ride.

Ok I'll try & answer all this help in one post.
I feel our transmissions are actually a 3 speed with a overdrive, when I put it in forth I get 1.5 revolutions, every trans I've ever tore into was 1 to 1 in forth.
Pete I think your right, the counter shaft (what they call The first shaft assembly) will also have to be redone too due to the increased size of the primary gear & this could be the deal breaker. The counter shaft has all the gears machined on to one solid shaft & I bet would cost big $$$$$$$.
This tranny was one of the firesale trannys from Team Joyner it only had two outings on it. But it was no match for trying to make it through a real tough section with waaaaay to tall gearing.

I still am not sure if this is a low geared trans, it says 2007 on it but I think some of the early models were still tall geared. If any body opens up a known low geared trans could you count the teeth on 1st & let me know that will tell me what I have.

crispin

How do you like the open diff?

I haven't rode with the open diff yet as I am rebuilding the buggy.
My riding is 60% street and the rest is old logging roads.
I try to avoid mud.
So for me I think I will be very happy.
Most people do not understand how an oped diff works.
If both wheels have traction then they both get 1/2 of the power. It does not just power 1 wheel as many think it does.
Now if you get one wheel off the ground then that is the only wheel that gets any power.
So for me, someone who is sick of buying a replacement axle every year, this open axle should be great.
Now as soon as someone comes out with a locker diff, I will the first in line to buy one.

A locker would be the hot setup!!!!

can you help me out and take a good picture of how the throwout bearing is connected to the clutch shaft?
I have been having trouble getting mine back on.
thanks.

The bearing should be on the "fork" of the clutch activator arm. If it has only one slot or retainer on the bearing, this retainer should be on the outboard side of the fork.

crispin

I took a bunch of pictures, so when I get home tonight I'll post them.

This is very interesting info.. I'm not sure how many 650SS are out there with an open dif.. i know my 2009 has an open diff. CapedBandit and I run together alot, and we have compared both. Where we ride the big benifit is turning. knock on wood I have not gotten into a spot where the I got stuck because of the open diff... but a locker would rock.. wish I had tons of money to do some custom development!!!!

Question since you guys have had the case apart can you tell me what the two plugs are on the top of the case one to the out side is I believe is the neutral safty switch the other has 4 or 5 small er wires that runs into its own jacket running to the front I dont have it near me right now but I'll post a picture if no can awnser

The one with 4 wires is the speedo. It is just slip fit into the connector and pulls right out.
I believe the other is for the reverse light.

That would make sense my wiring was so messed/eaten up by a goat !! I didn't no they had reverse lights

no they do not have reverse lights. I meant the reverse indicator light that is on the gauge cluster.

I don't need either of those things at this point if I go backwards I'm in reverse.. right ??? I'm not using the stock speedo so thats less to rewire!!