be careful tightening this nut and the variator nut. nearest I could tell the torque spec is 38ft. lbs. Anyone care to verify?
Of coarse I didn't look this up until after I twisted the rear output shaft off on my buggy last night installing a new clutch.

Now I can't ride this weekend

Ouch! That sucks! From my experience, looking at a couple of buggies at the rally, the nuts that are difficult to get off did not have a washer under them. MAKE SURE, that when you do end up getting the nut off, you put a washer back under the nut. This will keep it from being so difficult to get it back off.

no problem gettin it off.

Guess I shouldn't have used the impact puttin it back on.

How's everyone tightening it up? impact? ratchet? torque wrench?

I just used a ratchet...

Do you have a replacement shaft?
I think I've got a Twister 150 shaft in my parts bin.
CHEAP!!!

already ordered one friday morning from TJ, or I'd take you up on it. Trying to get it fixed before the holiday.

For the Blades are the nuts left or right threads?

I read through the majority of the post on this issue and something from work the other day popped in my head.

I had to design a surrogate armor pack for testing on one of those new mine-resistant vehilces going out to Iraq. I called out 3/4" grade 8 bolts to put it together and when I looked up torque specs, I did a double-take. The torque I ended up putting down on the drawing was roughly 300ft-lbs. I did the double take because I'm usually in my garage wrenching when I usually am looking at torque specs...usually 30-100ft-lbs.

Here's what I'm getting at...

The factory usually squeezes things down pretty tight. This is because you want to slightly deform the threads so that you increase friction between the threads and get a positive lock. Vibration and shock can loosen a bolt/nut whose threads are not slightly deformed. This torque is generally around 80% of the proof strength. Once the threads are slightly deformed, they don't need to be locked down as tight.

The reason WD-40 works is because it gets into the threads and lowers the metal-to-metal friction. This is the reason why bolts with WD-40, anti-sieze, etc. should not be torqued down as much as bolts that are dry. The decreased friction from a "wet" bolt makes it stretch more (and over-tighten) before you see the same amount of friction(torque) as a dry bolt.

Just my $.02

I'm glad this ones back on the carousel. It's a "Must Read" for anyone wanting to learn to mod the gy6. It also shows the ingenuity of some of our members.

ive never broke any of my sockets using them on my impact gun when i did my CVT and clutch upgrades. besides if you buy the craftsman tools they replace them for free when they break anyway....just take your 17mm socket to sears if it breaks and get a new one.