What BigE is speaking of is the reason my motor is being built. I would do what he suggest before getting parts. My piston siezed to the pin that siezed to the crank What this means is the engine case will need to be split and a new crank installed. If this seems to big a task I believe tomberlin has gotten some motors in finaly You can contact BigE to order one.

I have finally had the time to start breaking into the cylinder trying to see what is damaged.

I removed everything but the piston. I removed the ring clips on either side of the piston pin but the pin will not come out.
I can just barely rock the piston on the joint where the pin is at.
I tried using a socket and extension to tap the pin through with a hammer.
I am afraid to tap it too hard in fear of bending the part that connects to the piston.

Is there a certain direction the pin has to come out, towards the cam chain or torwards the flywheel?

I pretty sure that I am going to need a new piston,cylinder,rings, and maybe valves because when i looked at the underside of the valves they are extremely caked up with s--t.

Basically one side of the piston is scarred pretty good as well as the one side of the cylinder wall and part of the very bottom rong looks like it has been grided away.
Some good news (maybe) is that the flywheel rotates fine now the piston is free from the cylinder so that must have been what happend to sieze it up.
Any suggestions on getting that pin out?
Can I tap it pretty hard or will it bend something else?

Thanks

It sounds like you seized the connecting rod to the wrist pin. Disconnect the connecting rod from the crank and get a new connecting rod when you order your parts. Or you can beat on it, the worse that can happen is that you have to get a new connecting rod. A new wrist pin comes with the piston. Try some PB Blaster to free it up before you beat on it.

yep , sounds like the wrist pin is seized, I have suppored the one side of the rod with a steal pipe and tapped on the pin with a hammer. you will need a new crank and rod

Also, hold the rod and try to pull away from the flywheel. There shouldn't be any up and down movement.

Sounds like a stroker is in your future Mine was the same way. I took a small socket and a big c clamp. Off set the clamp so the screw part is on the socket but the other part leaves the hole open. Just crank it down.

Once you get it out you may be able to clean up the rod but I would just go new. Any small hang up will create friction

Ok, I had my brother hold a metal bar against a wall to support the side of the piston as bige suggested and hit that pin with a socket and hammer as hard as I could several times and that sucker will not budge, I thought the wall was coming down. It must have welded itself together that day when it was running wide open with no oil.

Will a C Clamp apply more pressure that hitting it as hard as I could with the socket and hammer? If so I will buy a c clamp and try it.

So now what? I Guess I have to take the entire motor off the buggy and take the flywheel off and take the whole crank case apart to get to the crank and rod?

there is no con rod end cap.the crank is a 3 pc crank .Its best to buy the crank and rod as one.Go witha stroker as ChuckO had said ,I would.If youre gonna pull the case apart I would also have the case bored for 170/180 kit.You gotta buy a kit anyways might as well up grade.I lke the 170 bc room to fix.Good luck and keep us posted

try the c-clamp, but sounds like you will need a crank and rod. like funnyman said , its all one assembly so might as well go with a stroker

Thats what a siezed rod is. Welded to the pin Since you need a crank why not just leave the piston on the rod and just split the case. Then hang the whole thing up on the wall in front of the buggy so you remember to check the oil before every ride