First off thanks to all for the warm welcome, as well as the quick responses and experience to help me out with my first time post and problem. It is official I have been bit by the bug. I will be picking up my own personal Buggy this coming Saturday and transferring total ownership of my present one to my 13 year old son.
The mods I have in mind to start will most likely be: 12g sliders, UNI, jets, fuel line and petcock upgrade, and the mainspring. I would love to hear any opinions, advice, experience, or horrors stories you may have. I am new to all of this, but am pretty mechanically inclined and always willing to learn. Unfortunately I never learned to weld so fab work is pretty much out of the question at this point in time. Also would like to hear the best order to proceed with these mods. Thanks for any and all advice. I will try to get some pics up this coming weekend of my buggies.

con grads on your new buggy, what brand is it? and what type of terrain will you be riding in

You got a pretty good list to start out with. The 12g sliders will give you some more bottom without killing thhe top. If your doing big hills or steep inclines you might want 10g.

We are talking 150 right

The best thing when starting mods is to make sure your buggy runs correctly first.
Lowering your roller weights will gain you more low end torque and is probably the biggest bang for the buck but like Eric asked, what kind of riding and in which buggy? Removing your stock airbox and re-jetting the main jet is also a great ,cheap mod.

I'm a relative nube to buggies but I've been hot rodding cars and motorcycles for decades. First thing that most folks do is to get the rid of the EPA mandated air boxes and make sure the jetting is right. I'm a firm believer that there's no sense in putting a new saddle on a sick horse. If the engine isn't right and you change the gearing or CVT, those changes may not work quite as you like once you get the engine in tune.

My rule of thumb is to have the engine in tip top shape before doing anything else. Plus an air filter and a jet is cheap and easy and it gets that big old nasty air box out of the way so you can get to the CVT later on.

I'm also big on keeping my toys quiet. Us off roaders are losing riding areas at a frightening pace and noise is one of the major culprits. I left my stock muffler on. If no one knows I'm out in the woods playing, they can't complain to the MAN.

This is a bit of a loaded question isn't it? Seriously though, I think you are off to a good start. It seems there is general consensus that the variator weights and clutch main spring add the most bang for the buck. Next I would add a UNI and rejet the carb.

I love my aftermarket exhaust but it’s just too darn loud for the burbs, so I will probably be putting the factory exhaust back on soon. Come summer, (aka buggy season) I will switch back to the MRP exhaust.

Let me preference my next recommendation with the following disclaimer, “The following is not typical and only pertains to my experience with the 250cc Coolster Dbl”. OK now that the legal mumbo jumbo is out of the way, my buggy is a completely different animal with the MRP CDI installed. I am talking like going from a 150cc to a 250cc difference; unbelievable!

But it comes at a price. The full advance causes my buggy to run real lean and I have to compensate with jetting. However, there is only so much you can do to resolve a timing issue with jeting, so my buggy pops quite a bit on deceleration. Also, at WOT going down hill, the engine will start missing slightly because the advance curve is just too much. One last thing, the MRP CDI makes a buzzing sound and drains the battery. Oh, also the kill switch no longer works. Anyhow, I have purchased the Yellow adjustable CDI. I am hoping that works a little better.

Not sure on the brand of the new buggy at this point. It looks real close to my Fushin and definitely could not argue with the price. as far as the terrain, at the moment we are just riding on our 5 acres, but will definitely be looking into various types of terrain in which to ride. At the moment it will be mostly flat pasture areas. Our riding will be limited until I figure out the reverse problem on the Fushin Buggy. As for exhaust I do plan on keeping it stock as I can't justify the cost at the present time, as well as the fact that I am not a fan of loud exhaust. The quieter the better IMHO. I also have no plans on doing any CDI or similar upgrades any time soon. Basically just the simple stuff that will add a little more bang without affecting reliability. Three other things, How much of an improvement does an upgraded carb and intake make? Does it tend to affect the reliability of the machine? How big of a chore is it to do?

i'll make my comments short & sweet. i asked a lot of questions on here before doing any mods. my signature shows what i've done and i'm sorry i waited as long as i did to upgrade. i've invested about $700 in upgrades but i can't tell you what a difference it's made over stock.........BIG difference!! money well spent.

Well it really aint cut and dry. The first few post are the most common and most would say best bang for the buck. Others would say the carb is and others would say shocks. I've done a little bit of all of it

I would say do the cvt, uni, uni oil, chain oil, jets first. Then a carb and exhaust. Then shocks. Then electrics. To me this is the bang for the buck.

If you do a 30mm slide or pump carb you get instant throtle. You touch it, it goes

dont bother swapping the carb yet... You REALLY need the carb when you really need the extra airflow and fuel... I raced a 150 with some cvt work and a new carb (i think 28mm or 30mm) and with my mods i absolutely raped him 3 times (Sorry john but its true ) and that was with a broken belt and reverse


Uni filter + Metal intake
Rejet
Eastside exhaust (you said you didnt want loud so you could look into another muffler... IMO its not terribly loud but probably to loud for your liking.)
CDI + Coil (This isnt hard at all, its literally plug and play... While you probably wont notice anything on the butt dyno unless your factory ignition is REALLY bad, the CDI will remove the rev limiter and the coil works good in conjunction with it of course, but these arent needed right away until you start revving the motor out)

Here's what i did with my CVT, and i was still able to top at 50mph and rev to 12,000RPM, so whoever is going to say (oh but the top end) just zip it now

10G rollers
Prodigy clutch AND bell
Yellow clutch spring (1500rpm i think, its been a while)
New variator (the one blade used to sell, i dont know if they do anymore)

Oh yes, if you really want to get the thing to move, i have a cam as well and that REALLY does wonders for the motor... You can get a torque cam (I believe A10), Speed cam (I believe A12) or i think their is one in the middle.




As for the reverse, if its not a cable adjustment issue, make sure theirs a nut on the shaft in the box still... that is if your reverse is the same as mine, which it may not be... its most likely an adjustment issue.


One other thing, make sure you pull the filter off the CVT boot, or your CVT is going to start overheating when the filter clogs up in 3 seconds.