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 Post subject: Removing Joyner 650 SS Axle Shaft
PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 11:05 am 
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Location: Calgary, Canada
Hi all,

Trying to remove the passenger side axle shaft from my Joyner Sand Spider. It will slide about half an inch out of the differential, but then stop.

Is there a snap ring or something that prevents the axle from sliding out of the differential? Possibly inside the hard plastic boot housing the axle joint? If so, any advice on how you remove it?

I'm actually trying to remove the oil pan, but the axle shaft prevents you from getting at two of the bolts holding it on, so I need to move it first.

Thanks.


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 Post subject: axle shaft removal
PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 2:32 pm 
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Location: Elkhart, IN
Greetings,
I recommend you search the threads on here discussing axle shaft removal. I took the boot off and removed the snap ring from the back, it's a messy job, but I was afraid I was going to break something prying the axle shafts off. Good luck, why are you taking the oil pan off?

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2008 SANDSPIDER 650

BROKEN DIFFRENTIAL OUTPUT SHAFT


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 3:28 pm 
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Location: Calgary, Canada
Thanks Padawan.....should have thought of that myself.

I want to drop the oil pan to have a look up into the cylinders. I lost compression on on cylinder and was hoping to get some idea what is going on without removing the whole engine.

By the way....I see you also have a 2008 650 SS.....don't use an aftermarket oil filter (fram etc). Although I'm not sure, after reading a few posts on this forum, I suspect the fram filter I put on after it's first oil change didn't allow sufficient flow at higher RPM resulting in piston/ring/cylinder damage.

Take care.


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 Post subject: oil filter
PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 3:41 pm 
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Location: Elkhart, IN
Your welcome.
The name is indianahillclimber, Padawan describes my activity on here. Thanks for the tip i will be removing the aftermarket filter i had installed, before operating my engine again; that scary what happend to you.

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2008 SANDSPIDER 650

BROKEN DIFFRENTIAL OUTPUT SHAFT


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 3:49 pm 
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Location: Seattle, WA
I pulled the document below off Team Joyner's site. These are some other filters that cross:

WIX - 57040
Mobil 1 - M1-108
AMSoil - EA012
AMSoil - EAOM103 (synthetic fleece filter)
Purolator - PL14612
Fram - PH6607
K&N - 204


Attachments:
CAHNGE_OVER_LIST.pdf [118.89 KiB]
Downloaded 9 times

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08 Joyner SandViper 250
07 Joyner SandSpider 650 - For Sale
06 Tank Urban Touring 150SE
04 Yerf-Dog Spiderbox 4209 GX150 (SOLD)
04 Yerf-Dog Spiderbox 3206 GX150
81 Honda Passport C70B

NW Riding - http://www.buggynews.com/viewforum.php?f=54
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 Post subject: Oil filter
PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 4:21 pm 
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pghruby,

Are you suggesting that the after market filters posted on Team Joyners website will provide proper flow? Bew2 is suggesting the Fram filter failed (say that three times) and caused significant engine damage.

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2008 SANDSPIDER 650

BROKEN DIFFRENTIAL OUTPUT SHAFT


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 4:32 pm 
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Tuk-Tuk posted to not use aftermarket filters. I am on my second FRAM with out any issues. I do agree that just because it fits is not a good enough reason to use a filter. However Team Joyner is saying this filter is fine. Once I had this filter number, I was able to cross reference it to other companies and applications such as the Mercedes SMART and Honda 600R.

_________________
08 Joyner SandViper 250
07 Joyner SandSpider 650 - For Sale
06 Tank Urban Touring 150SE
04 Yerf-Dog Spiderbox 4209 GX150 (SOLD)
04 Yerf-Dog Spiderbox 3206 GX150
81 Honda Passport C70B

NW Riding - http://www.buggynews.com/viewforum.php?f=54


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 4:41 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 08, 2008 8:01 pm
Posts: 138
Location: Vancouver, WA
I highly doublt your filter caused your loss of compression. Pulling the pan is not a good way to look at your engine for compression loss. Have you pulled the valve cover to see if the cam could have a lob gone? What is the compression? Does the engine have a knock when running? A valve train problem will affect your compression more drastcally than an oil related failure. Looking at the cylinders from the bottom is not going to give the view you need you maybe able to see if the cylinders are scorred or you may spot a hole in your piston but you will still need the head off to fix anything and if it is in the valve train the head will need to come off and the pan doesn't so you are waisting your time. If it is a piston or cylinder wall the head has to come off anyway to make any repairs. Good luck if you need any help just post pictures and ask.
Mike


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 5:06 pm 
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Location: Calgary, Canada
Thanks all for your thoughts.

Gundog....after reading your post, that makes sense. I guess I was hesitant to start "taking apart" the motor because I have very limited mechanical experience and no one to really help me with it (other than everyone here on the forum!).

Additionally, not having a service manual makes me nervous because I might not be able to get it back together once apart.

I guess I'll call Tuk Tuk USA again to try and get a manual for the 650 motor (they were all in Thailand when I tried a week or two ago) and give it a go.

You had asked about compression. It is 90 on one cylinder and 30 on the other. Burning a ton of oil (I mean it is like a chimney coming out of the valve cover vent). Happened almost instantly. Ran fine one night.....next morning couldn't get it started and when it finally did, it ran terrible and belched out the oil burning smoke.

Again, thanks all for your help.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 5:17 pm 
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It's an 2008 model. Is it still under warranty? Would your dealer give you a free look over? Where are you located - Update your profile.

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08 Joyner SandViper 250
07 Joyner SandSpider 650 - For Sale
06 Tank Urban Touring 150SE
04 Yerf-Dog Spiderbox 4209 GX150 (SOLD)
04 Yerf-Dog Spiderbox 3206 GX150
81 Honda Passport C70B

NW Riding - http://www.buggynews.com/viewforum.php?f=54


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