As I said it's getting to much fuel. The guy probly put new jets in and there to big. Pull the bottom of and see if the jets are numbered. Either that or he cleaned the jets by running something through the holes Which opened up the jet size

on the air/ fuel screw should be around 1 1/2 turns out.
turn out counter clockwise for gas,turn in clockwise for air.
make sure engine has warmed up and choke shut off before adjusting.
i still would look into adjusting the valves to that will blacken the plug to.
valve adjustment is just common maintenance on these engines.
maybe its just me though if it was running that rich the ole nose should pick up the smell of unburnt gas or plug being wet with gas.

pud

These carbs can be very tough to figure out sometimes. they can react differently from othe types of slide carbs. what seems like a obvious fix to a problem can very well be the symptoms of a completly different problem.
The constant velocity carb found on these buggies is not the optimum carb choice for the kind of riding some/alot of us do. This carb is fine for casual road running, like in a scooter but when the carb gets slamed around in off road use, causes of trouble can easily be misdiagnosed. For example: some complain of a high speed stumble. that could make one belive in a fuel delivery problem. In reality, it is the air slide bouncing around, screwing up the air/fuel ratio. No cure for that in a cv carb.
here are the steps to getting a stock 24m carb back on track.
1- clean the tank spotless and replace All fuel, vacum lines and filters with New. The slightest speck of dirt can clog the pilot jet, screwing up the whole system, resulting in hard or no starts, bad idle, no throttle response. old lines get glazed inside Connecting and moving around old lines knocks glazing and dirt into the carb. don't expect the filter to do this job if the line below the filter is old and dirty. everytime you touch this line you will immediatly clog the float valve and/or pilot on start up. You end up screaming and throwing stuff around the shop, swearing the carb is clean and not the problem ! we suggest you use clear lines and filter to observe fuel flow and condition.
2- clean the carb! spotless and sanitary. disassemble completly,Soak it in a good cleaner, blow out all ports and passages. The kitchen sink is a good place if you can get this done before the better half comes home and catches you!
3- reassemble the carb, confirm the size if the pilot jet and main. A carb set up for a buggy should have a #35 pilot jet and a #112 to 116 main in stock form. Somewhere around a 127 main if there are intact and exhaust changes. anything more than a 135 is most cases is too much unless there are internal mods like a aftermarket head and/or cam. confirm the float needle is good. if you can see a ring around the rubber tip, replace it! check the float setting. this setting can gives symptoms just like a wrong jet size. invert the carb with the float and needle installed. the float should sit exactly parallel with the bowl edge. back edge of the float too high will give hard starts, show a lean condition and a lack of high speed fuel delivery. Back edge too low will flood on starts, load up throttle response and show a rich condition. Air screw, if exposed should be around 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 turns out. they are normally set and sealed in this range from the factory and you normally shouldn't have to fiddle with it. Before installing the fuel enrichener, confirm the fuel enrichener is working right. Connect the leads to a 12v power source and watch for the needle to extend about a 1/8th inch. it should also retract when power is removed. The extend time should take around a minute or so.
4- inspect the slide diaphram under the metal top . look for holes, splits or any other leaks. check that the diaphram will hold vacum either with a test pump or simply by sucking on the hose. it should raise and hold the slide with a slight vacum pull.
dirt and contaimination is the number one cause of carb problems. 99% of problems can be traced to one tiny speck of dirt! Do that carb rebuild like open heart surgey - clean is the rule!
keep in mind these steps simply put you back to base one with a good carb, enableing you to mark a lot off the list of possible causes. These steps may not cure your problem but at least you know where the problem does NOT lay.
Also, a lot of the carbs you see on e-bay at that attractive price are carbs set up for 50 and 90 cc motors in some strange far off land. Some come with 38 pilots and 65 mains and other strange float settings. they are not a plug and play item. The carbs are basicaly the same 24m but set up for a different motor.

I agree with both. I adjust my valves before every big ride or after a few short rides. My rule with carb cleaning, if it looks good, clean it again. These 2 issues can make you go crazy. I often see people just ignore us on these valves. They check and replace every thing they can and then break down to do the valves. Same with the carbs being clean and intake leaks. Every one swears it's clean and with no leaks. a month later they give up and check it and that was it. It take very little to throw a wrench in the gears with these issues

wow thats a lot to take in! i did pull the carb again on jet has a 35 on it the other has no number ,the carb is very clean inside both jets are clean i noticed the air fuel screw is out pretty far thats why i asked where it should be mine is out 7 turns! the jet that has the 35 on it appears to have been remove with a screwdriver the end is slightly knarled?? the other jet which the large needle goes into the needle has some rub marks on it and is loose in the fit together?? when it runs it seems as the float with the needle that is visable when looking in the carb is always stuck down if i floor it then push up on the float it will raise and the engine revs up if i keep a high rpm i can race the motor up and down but if i let off or let it try to idle it dies?? i did find out this cart was used hard it has been rolled .i imagine this is not good for any thing although i wouldnt mind trying it if this will ever drive again... is there a better easyier carb i could use?? any links thanks again

hi all today i got back at it adjusted the valves to .003 and.004 they seemed a little tighter than that pulled the carb again did have to adjust the float was not perfectly level when flipped over cleaned it once again and did a mouth pull vaccum test on the hose that gets intake vacuum to the small diaphragm it held fine i think i was under the impression that if a vacuum is pulled that the large plunger with the needle would move ? should it? mine just sits on the bottom of the carb it will move up and down by hand with pretty good resistance from that large spring when you raise it up and down you can hear air moving ?? is this ok?? well same problem it will start and idle for ever the minute you hit the gas easy it dies if you floor it it idles slightly higher and starts farting and puffing black exhaust and ideas sounds carb related any replacement carb links thanks

Any of the trusted dealers can get you a quality OEM replacement carburetor, but you may want to consider a performance carburetor (30mm slide or pumper) and intake since you are replacing parts anyway.

list-trusted-dealers-t17576.html

wow thanks for the super fast reply i agree i will probably start looking for an after market carb these from the factory are tough to work with especially without knowing the carts maintance or abuse. can you explain the difference between a slide and a pumper?? this is only a toy for now but i may be hooked once its up and going is there a specific brand that is better or easier to work on? in either a slide or pumper catagory

The stock carburetor is 24mm with a vacuum operated slide. The pumper works the same way your current carburetor does but has a little mechanical pump that squirts fuel into the engine when you depress the throttle pedal - The idea behind this squirt is to compensate for the slow reaction of the vacuum slide. The slider uses a mechanically activated slide directly linked to the throttle cable allowing for much quicker throttle response. Either of the larger carburetors will require a larger intake elbow to connect to the engine. The slider carburetor will need a different throttle cable than your existing one. Look for complete kits from one of the dealers to make your install easier.

thanks for clearing that up. ive been looking around the site at other postings and i seem to remember someone mentioning cutting a round off of the large spring atop the carb ,this would give a quicker responce to the throttle does any one think this may help in my case it seems to have a lot of pressure holding the slide to the carb bottom i just wonder if i was able to loosen the grip maybe the vacuum would pull it up as it should?? every time i try it it just reminds me of a lawnmower with the choke on when floored maybe i should find a way to disable the choke and see what happens any suggestions?