I got my camshaft in yesterday. Does anyone have any tips or suggestions for installing one of these? I have the directions, but I was wondering if anyone has encoubtered any problems that they would like to share.

I would love all the extra info we could get. Mine should be here in days too and am trying to get mentaly ramped up to the job. I would like the book 'My first engine project, installing a high performance cam' in the beginners version. I would feel so great if I could actually get this thing in and my engine not have to be cracked open to fish for a timeing chain! I also favor takeing the seats out, and even the carb if it helps, but would rather leave the engine in the kart myself.

I'll post something shortly, got mine in wed., passenger seat only needs to come out. You should be able to do it in under 1 hour even if you have never worked on one.

kell

OOUUUHHHH!!!
I like the sound of that. Please tell me more

Gasp .... !!!!

I think that sounds great too.

Take a lot of time and make sure you document where your TDC timing is set.. that is the thing that is very vague and seems to change from brand to brand of buggy out there. Be very comfortable with this... you probably don't want to be trying to figure this out later.

Pay attention to the directions about the tention device... you don't want to damage the timing chain... that would be bad. It would require splitting the engine case apart to replace.


I found it very easy to do with one seat out like Kell said.


-Steve

OK, it's in!!
It wasn't so bad after all. It took me longer to take my passanger seat out than it did to change out the cam. It also started right up. I was very happy. The TDC is not very clear on my Sahara. It is the same as the Blade. Steve's post really helped out. I can't wait to try it out. I did try it a little bit, but only slow. Cant wait to punch it and see the results.
I am not a machanic by any means, and if I can do it, anyone can. All I need now is for Eastside to get the pipes in. FYI, I ordered mine on May 18th.

Good work Jabo! I am glad for you and hope I can pull it off as well. I already have my seat out so I am half way there. I am feeling lucky... my cam and pipe will both be here tomarrow at 9:10AM.

Awesome. Glad my pic/post helped. I know I was a little thrown by the plethora of markings on the flywheel... they weren't very confidence building.

-Steve

Did you guys use break-in lube on the cams? Very important.

Philip

????
Didn't say that in the directions.

Yeah, I've never heard of that either.


-S

If you've already started the engine with the new cam it's too late. If not I'd go out and buy engine break in lube (STP also works). Make sure you generously coat the cam lobes.

This is standard in the engine rebuilding world.

Philip

Ditto that. Look up any cam installation on the net and it will tell you to do it. It keeps the lobes and lifter from major wear at startup and break in.

http://www.powerandperformancenews.com/ ... _Code=LUBE

Our bikes don't have lifters (adjustable rocker arms) per say but you should still apply a quality break in lube when doing a cam change.

If any of you guys want to get hi-tech, check out www.igtinc.com. They're a company that coats cuttings tools with anti-friction and anti-wear coatings. One of the co-owners is a hard core desert buggy racer and he coats his valves for anti-wear and reduced friction.

Philip

Well, I guess its too late.
Steve, what do you think of this??

No idea what to think of it... the question is... do the chinese really do this when building our little 150cc engines in the first place??

I'm running fine, and I've had the head valve cover off again 10 hours later. The valve adjustment gaps were exact still.

-Steve

As standard engine builders do use cam lube. The new ones from the factory usually have a coating of it on. The main thing to remember when doing the cam swap is that if you have cleaned the top end (valves and rockers) before putting the new one in, it will be running dry (no oil) for a few seconds. This is what can cause a lot of damage. I also remember swapping a cam on an old VW engine and it needed some time at 2000 rpm? Something about break in speeds. In a larger engine where it takes a lot of time for the oil to pump round and get to the cam, lube is very important.

Guys, I think eastside is aware of this now. I have not looked through talonmans word document. Hope he has the break in oild in there somewhere.

At eastside yesterday, I got a mm away from buying the cam and they did mention I'd need to get it!

BTW, I have too many projects going on is the only reason I did not.

Just get it... it's a GREAT mod.


Very good price/performance ratio in my opinion.

Quick and easy to do.


-Steve